Sick Maverick... :(

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212Mavguy

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Oct 5, 2007
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Park City, UT
Played out at the local city park at a wake for an old friend a couple weeks ago. Played perfectly and sounded great, er, the amp that is. Put the cover back on and took 'er home. Went to a buddy's house for a jam sesh a couple night ago, when I hit the power switch a loud buzzing immediately came out of the chassis, filaments lighted up, but no amp power light. This has up to now been my most reliable amp. Has this ever happened to you?
 
Hey Rabies, nice to hear from ya. Thanks for the reply...will take the chassis out of the cab and have a look see tonight. Am pretty sure it's not tube related, will check out the power supply areas and fuse thang. Definitely will check out fuse situation first. The noise sounds like arcing is going on, mebbee a critter found its way up on the circuit board and it's well fried corpse is bridging a couple of circuit board traces. That happened in a Bedrock I got off ebay. Dead pill bugs wrapped in spider webbing were the colprit, the spider was long gone but left its homework behind... Will post results of first exam.

Whatever it is, Big Butt Bertha B. Badd is 10-7 for now.
 
Got the chassis out, it's serious. Fuse is OK. No power to preamp tube heater filaments. The large, multi pin connector block close by the rectifier tube is burned black over part of it. More than I can handle...bummer, my fave gigging amp out of my whole stable...Now I have to figger out how to pack it for shipping.
 
OK... turns out my local tech is Mesa certified, so no need to ship to Petaluma. Power tranny was blown, both high voltage and 6.3V heater circuits. Ordering a new PT from Mesa, and will see about doing up a custom adjustment scheme for the cathode bias thang. That way no matter what kind of power tubes I choose to run in it, I won't max out the power tranny ever again.

:roll:
 
It's Baaaack! Mike Christenson, ace Mesa certified tech operating out of House of guitars in Salt Lake City figured out a foolproof adjustable cathode bias system, a combination of two resistors, one parallell, other in series with an Ohmite brand rheostat. The range is very limited, such that minumum is not too cold and maximum is not too hot, slightly less hot than the stock setting, which might have been OK for tubes available in the early 90's when the amp was made, but not necessarily the best for right now.

The rheostat is mounted right in the back of the chassis, and has a knob to turn either direction from outside the amp, so no need to take the chassis out. Simple and elegant. If I want to check, I can still use a dual socket biastool connected to my DVM to take readings. It was allowed to run for an hour and no heat buildup was noted for the new parts. A few caps were replaced, it's running quiet as a church mouse now. The new power tranny was a drop in fit for the old one, the exact part number for the old one is no longer available. Finally, modded the f/x loop to serial from parallell, and easily reversible. With a twist of the dial, can tell a slight difference in tones from colder to hotter bias. Then there's the SS rec setting still available for more juice if needed. The Russky mil stock 6p14p-ev power tubes were operating at new levels of current draw still, after close to a thousand hours of operation, too. Guess that when they said they were rated for 5000 hours in circuit they weren't kidding!

Saweeeeeet!
 

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