I’ve had the combo for nearly 6 months now and it’s great, but during rehearsal today it started cutting out if I strummed to hard. I plugged it into a different 4 watt cabinet and it worked fine, but upon plugging into the speaker in the cab again; it still cuts out. I tried re-flowing the solder joints on the pancake 1/4 into the speaker, and then also the joints on the speaker itself. Nothing. I have no idea what’s going on
Mark VII cutting out when strumming hard
- Thread starter CrowGhost
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Does it cut out if you try different speaker out with combo speaker? You could test with the 4ohm out or another 8ohm out…
If it does cut out only with the one output then that jack may be dirty or broke
Hi! Thanks for your reply. I used a different cabinet (a very small crate speaker) in the 4 ohms output and it worked just fine. So I tried moving the onboard speaker over to 4 ohms. Still the same issue. It’s very strange, because it will only start to cut out if I strum a certain hardness.
Does the onboard speaker have a twisted pair of wires (black/white) or is it a cable with a jacket on it?
It could be a bad wire. It could also be a bad plug. It may also be a weak solder joint on the flex cable or braided copper wire that looks more like solder wick. The harder you play or some notes may cause more travel on the cone, if there is a bad wire joint at the voice coil or on the post that mounts the wires too may cause this issue.
How long does the speaker stay off when playing? Are we talking about gig level?
Is the amp overheating, rear of chassis getting too hot to touch? I had a similar issue with my Mark V90 shortly after getting it home, it would overheat and then cut out. Bias was way off the mark. It did not red plate the tubes for like 2 months of use. Then that started to occur. I hope in your case it is just a bad speaker or wire or jack. Write an email to Mesa boogie customer service, this amp and its components should be under warranty.
It could be a bad wire. It could also be a bad plug. It may also be a weak solder joint on the flex cable or braided copper wire that looks more like solder wick. The harder you play or some notes may cause more travel on the cone, if there is a bad wire joint at the voice coil or on the post that mounts the wires too may cause this issue.
How long does the speaker stay off when playing? Are we talking about gig level?
Is the amp overheating, rear of chassis getting too hot to touch? I had a similar issue with my Mark V90 shortly after getting it home, it would overheat and then cut out. Bias was way off the mark. It did not red plate the tubes for like 2 months of use. Then that started to occur. I hope in your case it is just a bad speaker or wire or jack. Write an email to Mesa boogie customer service, this amp and its components should be under warranty.
It is black and white cables covered by a rubber jacket. The speaker will cut out for intermittent periods of time, mostly for just a second or two. I was playing at gig volume, probably a little louder. But I had been playing it at the same-ish volume for the past couple months. Not extremely often- here and there.
Chassis is a reasonable temp. When I was feeling around inside it wasn’t too hot at all. The tubes were, of course, but they definitely weren’t red plating.
I did email boogie and they recommended a speaker or going to a service center. I asked which they recommended I try first, so we’ll see I suppose. Pretty odd. The fact it worked with another cabinet, even though it was a different wattage, has me confused. Sounds a lot like a loose joint or something, but from what I can see of the plug connections and the speaker connections without taking the speaker itself out; it looks fine
This could be a defective speaker and the voice coil can’t move fast enough for those dynamic transients.
What you cannot see, what is under the black doping on the cone where the voice coil is attached to the flexible leads. This is not repairable. Sometimes solder joins look good but may not be. Note that they are now using lead free solder which has its pluses and minuses. For one, it does not flow well like tin/lead solder. Also, it is not wise to mix the two types of solder in a joint. Also the lead free solder requires more heat than your average soldering iron can deliver to get it to flow and bond to the other metals properly. If the flex leads are not bonded properly to the speaker connecting posts it will cut out due to the movement. However, it sounds like you are getting a temporary short occurring as that will cut out the speaker for a brief moment. That is a better condition to have happen vs becoming intermittently open circuit since the on-board speaker load that is used when the speaker jack is removed will be disconnected while the jack is in place. That needs to be fixed so I would not use the amp until you have that corrected.
If you need to work on the speaker wire connections, it is best with the speaker removed from the amp. Rude awakening here, you will need to pull the chassis out and the reverb tank at the bottom to gain access to the 4 nuts that secure the speaker to the cabinet. I doubt it would be possible to remove the speaker while the chassis is in the amp. Probably why Mesa suggested a tech or repair service to do the work. Not sure how the warranty was written so replacing or fixing the wiring on the speaker may void the warranty.
If you are not familiar with amplifier disassembly, it may be best to have an authorized service place do the work for you. There will be a waiting period for a replacement speaker hoping they decide to do that. In some cases, you may end up with the amp returned and nothing fixed. Could not find the issue reported. I would also recommend you get one of those sharpie markers and mark the speaker basket with something you can recognize (take a picture of it after you mark it). That way you may see if the speaker was replaced or not. However, it could just be the plug and or cable assembly so if they just replace that, you may get the same speaker back after the repair.
If you need to work on the speaker wire connections, it is best with the speaker removed from the amp. Rude awakening here, you will need to pull the chassis out and the reverb tank at the bottom to gain access to the 4 nuts that secure the speaker to the cabinet. I doubt it would be possible to remove the speaker while the chassis is in the amp. Probably why Mesa suggested a tech or repair service to do the work. Not sure how the warranty was written so replacing or fixing the wiring on the speaker may void the warranty.
If you are not familiar with amplifier disassembly, it may be best to have an authorized service place do the work for you. There will be a waiting period for a replacement speaker hoping they decide to do that. In some cases, you may end up with the amp returned and nothing fixed. Could not find the issue reported. I would also recommend you get one of those sharpie markers and mark the speaker basket with something you can recognize (take a picture of it after you mark it). That way you may see if the speaker was replaced or not. However, it could just be the plug and or cable assembly so if they just replace that, you may get the same speaker back after the repair.
So I did reach out and they responded on a Sunday morning. Very prompt and excellent service.
Theyre 2 daying me a new speaker. I’ve taken the chassis out of a few Vox AC30s. They suggested I try the speaker first and if that doesn’t work, they’ll have the service center near me repair it. They are even sending a replacement speaker cable already connected to the speaker. So all I have to do is install.
Do you think it would do me good to try the speaker outside of the amp before removing my own speaker?
Yes, you can operate the speaker unmounted. It will sound very weak when doing that due to sound pressure cancellation.
I thought of something during my first cup of coffee this morning. It was part of my KT training I had at work for root cause analysis. We can easily jump to conclusions of what the issue may be based on past experiences that may cloud our judgement to what the actual issue is. We already know the side effect that the amp cuts out when you are driving the speaker harder with heavy strumming vs non-aggressive playing. What would be helpful if you had a speaker coupling cable that had a female end to you can connect the speaker cable to another amp. Drive the speaker while it is still in the combo by another source to see if the sound cuts out under similar circumstances.
Where I am going with this: A combo amp is almost like having a built in HALT test but without the extreme cold temperatures associated with that type of test. More of a vibration table created by the speaker. The more voltage and current driving the speaker the higher the vibration from that moving part will transfer mechanical energy into the chassis. This will be vibrating power and preamp tubes, internal cables or wiring that is a press fit connection as well as soldered wires on the PCB. Any of this mechanical energy transfer could reveal a bad solder joint, weak connection, or bad part. Since the speaker replacement is a simple change and time it would take to determine if the speaker is the cause of the issue will be far less than having to analyze the actual preamp board inside the amp. Sort of like when a Roadster stops working, the common practice is to replace all of the JFETS without determining which one is at fault. The JFETS are typically used as solid state switches in the amp for some modes or voicings not managed by relay contacts, they are also commonly used in the strobe mute circuit. Replacing all of them is a form of shot-gun approach which does not really isolate the root cause of the issue. I will be optimistic that the issue is associated with the moving part, the speaker or its electrical connections and not something inside the amp.
If you have not pulled the chassis out of the Mark VII, it is a tight fit (it was that way with the head). I pulled the chassis out for S&Gs as I end up doing that with all of my amps when I first get them. Sometimes a good image of the amp before it gets used and abused may be helpful in determining a component value (resistor) in the event something fails down the road. Perhaps with an old-School amp that would be worth while, with the modern designs, not something that would be helpful. What you will find inside is this: It should be safe to remove the chassis from the amp without risk of electrocution from stored energy. Just keep your fingers out of the guts and all will be fine. Also, the chassis is where all of the weight is so expect it to be heavy. Probably best to remove the power tubes and set them aside for reassembly. Sure if you wanted to power up the amp and try that outside of the combo shell, it can be done but more than likely it will be inverted since there is nothing to rest the amp on with the power tubes installed. That is generally what I have done with the Mark V90, Roadster, or even the RA100 when tube rolling.
Oh yeah, I just remembered something with the Mark VII when I first used the footswitch. I did not have the channel selector set to CH2. I found the amp was doing some weird things when I had it set to CH3. The JP2C also had CH2 marked for footswitch use but that amp never did anything funky if the 3-way mini toggle was set on a different channel. Getting the chassis back into the combo shell will be the harder thing to do. I recommend connecting the power cable first before you slide the chassis back into position. I found it difficult to try to connect it after the fact but that was with the head version and very little room for your hands to fit in that tight space. Combo may be easier.
I thought of something during my first cup of coffee this morning. It was part of my KT training I had at work for root cause analysis. We can easily jump to conclusions of what the issue may be based on past experiences that may cloud our judgement to what the actual issue is. We already know the side effect that the amp cuts out when you are driving the speaker harder with heavy strumming vs non-aggressive playing. What would be helpful if you had a speaker coupling cable that had a female end to you can connect the speaker cable to another amp. Drive the speaker while it is still in the combo by another source to see if the sound cuts out under similar circumstances.
Where I am going with this: A combo amp is almost like having a built in HALT test but without the extreme cold temperatures associated with that type of test. More of a vibration table created by the speaker. The more voltage and current driving the speaker the higher the vibration from that moving part will transfer mechanical energy into the chassis. This will be vibrating power and preamp tubes, internal cables or wiring that is a press fit connection as well as soldered wires on the PCB. Any of this mechanical energy transfer could reveal a bad solder joint, weak connection, or bad part. Since the speaker replacement is a simple change and time it would take to determine if the speaker is the cause of the issue will be far less than having to analyze the actual preamp board inside the amp. Sort of like when a Roadster stops working, the common practice is to replace all of the JFETS without determining which one is at fault. The JFETS are typically used as solid state switches in the amp for some modes or voicings not managed by relay contacts, they are also commonly used in the strobe mute circuit. Replacing all of them is a form of shot-gun approach which does not really isolate the root cause of the issue. I will be optimistic that the issue is associated with the moving part, the speaker or its electrical connections and not something inside the amp.
If you have not pulled the chassis out of the Mark VII, it is a tight fit (it was that way with the head). I pulled the chassis out for S&Gs as I end up doing that with all of my amps when I first get them. Sometimes a good image of the amp before it gets used and abused may be helpful in determining a component value (resistor) in the event something fails down the road. Perhaps with an old-School amp that would be worth while, with the modern designs, not something that would be helpful. What you will find inside is this: It should be safe to remove the chassis from the amp without risk of electrocution from stored energy. Just keep your fingers out of the guts and all will be fine. Also, the chassis is where all of the weight is so expect it to be heavy. Probably best to remove the power tubes and set them aside for reassembly. Sure if you wanted to power up the amp and try that outside of the combo shell, it can be done but more than likely it will be inverted since there is nothing to rest the amp on with the power tubes installed. That is generally what I have done with the Mark V90, Roadster, or even the RA100 when tube rolling.
Oh yeah, I just remembered something with the Mark VII when I first used the footswitch. I did not have the channel selector set to CH2. I found the amp was doing some weird things when I had it set to CH3. The JP2C also had CH2 marked for footswitch use but that amp never did anything funky if the 3-way mini toggle was set on a different channel. Getting the chassis back into the combo shell will be the harder thing to do. I recommend connecting the power cable first before you slide the chassis back into position. I found it difficult to try to connect it after the fact but that was with the head version and very little room for your hands to fit in that tight space. Combo may be easier.
Super great advice here that I greatly appreciate. The only other amp I currently have with me is the fender blues deluxe reissue. I believe, according to fender specs, it’s got an 8 ohm speaker. I could try to plug that amp in to the boogie cab.
Again, forgive me for my ignorance when it comes to speakers. I should have no issues just plugging the BDRI straight into the mesa combo speaker correct?
Super great advice here that I greatly appreciate. The only other amp I currently have with me is the fender blues deluxe reissue. I believe, according to fender specs, it’s got an 8 ohm speaker. I could try to plug that amp in to the boogie cab.
Again, forgive me for my ignorance when it comes to speakers. I should have no issues just plugging the BDRI straight into the mesa combo speaker correct?
It may be tricky to do it, but if the speaker cable can reach the Fender amp output, sure, no problem with that. I think the Blues Deluxe is only 40W. I like those amps, they are my go-to when I want to try out a guitar off the wall.
Once one ventures into a tube amp, it is a learning experience. Nothing is cast in stone like you would get with a solid-state or modeling amp. Those work on fixed parameters even if you can program them differently. Tube amps have their own character that is difficult to replicate. The tubes themselves are non-linear devices so they will create harmonics as well as sub-harmonic frequencies that will not occur in solid-state amps as those are all linear.
The only things to be concerned with when it comes to speakers: be mindful of the power rating and impedance. Impedance being 8 ohms for DC signal and will change with frequency as it is a wound coil in a magnetic field. Impedance will increase with rise in frequency. Typical Celestion speaker DC resistance will be a bit lower than 8 ohms. 7.6 ohms if not mistaken at dc resistance measurement.
Do not connect a speaker that has less impedance than the output of the amp.
Say you had two speakers that are both 8 ohms. The combo speaker and an extension speaker that is 8 ohms. You can use both of them at the same time but only if you use the two 4 ohm jacks as the two speakers would be connected in parallel. Parallel loads will be like dividing by 2. Say you had two 16 ohm speakers, you can connect both into the 8 ohm jacks as the parallel combination will be 8 ohms.
If you are pushing a 90W rms rated speaker with a 40W amp, this is ok. However, driving a 90W rated amp into a 45W speaker, do not expect the voice coil to last very long as the coil former will become warped or damaged due to excess heat or possible coil damage due to insulation breakdown from that overload condition.
In the early days with those 100W amps(1960-1978?), there is reason why they used a full stack, the speakers had paper formers and were only rated at 12W each, so you literally had to have two 412 cabs to prevent speaker failure. Often times they caught on fire due to excess voice coil heat being high enough to burn the cone materials. With more modern materials used these days, that is no longer a problem.
However, say you have two 45W speakers in series or parallel, no problem since the total watt capacity will be fine or a match at 90W. There should be a section in the manual on speakers (more on matching impedances). I did measure the peak output levels of the Mark VII with a load box attenuator, yeah, that output can peak up to 145W rms, very much the same range I got with the JP2C. Most speakers only list a nominal power rating or average and to not have the peak power listed. The Watts is a DC measurement. So what is the reactive power or apparent power of the speaker? It will usually be much higher since the signal from the amp is AC and not DC. So that there is the mystery. Sorry if this is confusing.
Having the speaker isolated from the combo amp may reveal something. If the speaker still cuts out, it is either with the speaker cable, plug or the speaker itself. At least you did confirm the amp is working ok with an external speaker. Just be sure you do not overdrive it with too much power (90W). Even the 45W power mode will push a peak close to 60W. 25W power mode will be a safe bet if the other speaker you want to try out is 40W or less but greater than 25W.
Is it possible it is something else? yes. Power tubes can become intermittent but usually when they get into red plate range, when they become swamped with uncontrolled current the sound will cut out before they go into full overload.
Vibration causing relay contact bounce. This can happen with excessive vibration. If the signal path is disconnected it will disrupt the output during the moments of high vibration or a resonance frequency is reached within the mechanical structure that results in relay contact bounce. Probably not the problem here unless you have a bad relay on board.
Loose internal connections or issue with a solder joint. This issue can also happen after time of use. The PCB does not say cold during operation so the thermal cycles may create micro cracks in solder joints due to thermal expansion and then cooling down when the amp is turned off. If the fraction is enough to make contact during operation, the vibration could result in separation of that connection. This stuff does happen, and cannot be ruled out.
Much easier to replace the speaker and go from there. If the problem returns or is not corrected, that is a warranty thing that needs to be addressed by Mesa or a certified Mesa tech. Doing any repair work inside of the chassis will void your warranty unless it was done by Mesa certified tech or had Mesa approval and guidance to do the repair. I learned that the hard way with the TC50, lost the output and found a resistor failed on the FX loop. I replaced it and all was great. Tried some Mesa NOS tubes and blew the fuse. Amp was dead after that. They voided my warranty because I replaced a resistor that failed. I was able to get them to fix the amp which was something unrelated.
The tip-off was they saw my posts and when I called the issue in, they knew who I was before telling them. Big brother is watching. I would not recommend doing any repair on a warrantied amp. If they are sending you a replacement speaker, that is great, I assume that is not a warranty voiding thing if they are providing a replacement part. Just keep your hands out of the amp guts.
Also note: do not over-tighten the nuts when you get the speaker installed. Just enough tension to compress the gasket a bit. The last thing you want to do is bend the speaker frame any as this will cause a dimple in the cone to form. Already did that so figured I would make a note of it.
The only things to be concerned with when it comes to speakers: be mindful of the power rating and impedance. Impedance being 8 ohms for DC signal and will change with frequency as it is a wound coil in a magnetic field. Impedance will increase with rise in frequency. Typical Celestion speaker DC resistance will be a bit lower than 8 ohms. 7.6 ohms if not mistaken at dc resistance measurement.
Do not connect a speaker that has less impedance than the output of the amp.
Say you had two speakers that are both 8 ohms. The combo speaker and an extension speaker that is 8 ohms. You can use both of them at the same time but only if you use the two 4 ohm jacks as the two speakers would be connected in parallel. Parallel loads will be like dividing by 2. Say you had two 16 ohm speakers, you can connect both into the 8 ohm jacks as the parallel combination will be 8 ohms.
If you are pushing a 90W rms rated speaker with a 40W amp, this is ok. However, driving a 90W rated amp into a 45W speaker, do not expect the voice coil to last very long as the coil former will become warped or damaged due to excess heat or possible coil damage due to insulation breakdown from that overload condition.
In the early days with those 100W amps(1960-1978?), there is reason why they used a full stack, the speakers had paper formers and were only rated at 12W each, so you literally had to have two 412 cabs to prevent speaker failure. Often times they caught on fire due to excess voice coil heat being high enough to burn the cone materials. With more modern materials used these days, that is no longer a problem.
However, say you have two 45W speakers in series or parallel, no problem since the total watt capacity will be fine or a match at 90W. There should be a section in the manual on speakers (more on matching impedances). I did measure the peak output levels of the Mark VII with a load box attenuator, yeah, that output can peak up to 145W rms, very much the same range I got with the JP2C. Most speakers only list a nominal power rating or average and to not have the peak power listed. The Watts is a DC measurement. So what is the reactive power or apparent power of the speaker? It will usually be much higher since the signal from the amp is AC and not DC. So that there is the mystery. Sorry if this is confusing.
Having the speaker isolated from the combo amp may reveal something. If the speaker still cuts out, it is either with the speaker cable, plug or the speaker itself. At least you did confirm the amp is working ok with an external speaker. Just be sure you do not overdrive it with too much power (90W). Even the 45W power mode will push a peak close to 60W. 25W power mode will be a safe bet if the other speaker you want to try out is 40W or less but greater than 25W.
Is it possible it is something else? yes. Power tubes can become intermittent but usually when they get into red plate range, when they become swamped with uncontrolled current the sound will cut out before they go into full overload.
Vibration causing relay contact bounce. This can happen with excessive vibration. If the signal path is disconnected it will disrupt the output during the moments of high vibration or a resonance frequency is reached within the mechanical structure that results in relay contact bounce. Probably not the problem here unless you have a bad relay on board.
Loose internal connections or issue with a solder joint. This issue can also happen after time of use. The PCB does not say cold during operation so the thermal cycles may create micro cracks in solder joints due to thermal expansion and then cooling down when the amp is turned off. If the fraction is enough to make contact during operation, the vibration could result in separation of that connection. This stuff does happen, and cannot be ruled out.
Much easier to replace the speaker and go from there. If the problem returns or is not corrected, that is a warranty thing that needs to be addressed by Mesa or a certified Mesa tech. Doing any repair work inside of the chassis will void your warranty unless it was done by Mesa certified tech or had Mesa approval and guidance to do the repair. I learned that the hard way with the TC50, lost the output and found a resistor failed on the FX loop. I replaced it and all was great. Tried some Mesa NOS tubes and blew the fuse. Amp was dead after that. They voided my warranty because I replaced a resistor that failed. I was able to get them to fix the amp which was something unrelated.
The tip-off was they saw my posts and when I called the issue in, they knew who I was before telling them. Big brother is watching. I would not recommend doing any repair on a warrantied amp. If they are sending you a replacement speaker, that is great, I assume that is not a warranty voiding thing if they are providing a replacement part. Just keep your hands out of the amp guts.
Also note: do not over-tighten the nuts when you get the speaker installed. Just enough tension to compress the gasket a bit. The last thing you want to do is bend the speaker frame any as this will cause a dimple in the cone to form. Already did that so figured I would make a note of it.
Very interesting development. I tried the speaker with the blues deluxe and it’s fine. I even turned it up a bunch. Totally fine. Sounds excellent actually. So I said ok, I swapped the speaker back to the mesa and uh.. it’s completely fine now. No skipping at all and sounds great. Tried loud, on all 3 channels, same cables, everything.
So now I have it on a high volume to let things heat up a little, to see if it’s from heat or bad tubes. Is it possible this happened because my rehearsal space has bad power and that was causing the strangeness?
Something tells me this does not bode well, as it’s going to be way harder to track down the issue if there is one
Interesting.
Did you remove the speaker to try it in the Blues Deluxe?
I have had JJ tubes miss-behave but it was their 6CA7 tubes. I did not experience any drop outs but did notice a sudden change in volume, one tube would cut out as I could see no more blue hue but the other three were fine. Moved that tube do a different position and the issue followed the tube. So that ruled out the socket. The STR445 are JJ tubes but the pins fit very tight in the sockets. The 6CA7 had undersized pins. That was with a Mark V90 a few years ago.
I had some issue with the Mark VII as I mentioned before, I was using the footswitch with the mini toggle switch in CH3. For some reason it did not like that combination. When Changing channels, the amp would cut out, no sound for like a full second. Even changing back to the previous channel and then back again, no sound. Sometimes I would get one of the preamp tubes to go into self oscillation and just squeal when changing channels but that happened while I was not using the footswitch. I did replace all of the preamp tubes with new ones and that resolved the issue as one or two may have been microphonic. Have not had any issues since. So, the first few days of use I learned a few things. Now it is working without any issue. I hope Mesa worked out all of the bugs in the circuits before they brought it out for sale. I have many Mesa amps and have not had any issues with them, except for one, the Mark V90.
Did you remove the speaker to try it in the Blues Deluxe?
I have had JJ tubes miss-behave but it was their 6CA7 tubes. I did not experience any drop outs but did notice a sudden change in volume, one tube would cut out as I could see no more blue hue but the other three were fine. Moved that tube do a different position and the issue followed the tube. So that ruled out the socket. The STR445 are JJ tubes but the pins fit very tight in the sockets. The 6CA7 had undersized pins. That was with a Mark V90 a few years ago.
I had some issue with the Mark VII as I mentioned before, I was using the footswitch with the mini toggle switch in CH3. For some reason it did not like that combination. When Changing channels, the amp would cut out, no sound for like a full second. Even changing back to the previous channel and then back again, no sound. Sometimes I would get one of the preamp tubes to go into self oscillation and just squeal when changing channels but that happened while I was not using the footswitch. I did replace all of the preamp tubes with new ones and that resolved the issue as one or two may have been microphonic. Have not had any issues since. So, the first few days of use I learned a few things. Now it is working without any issue. I hope Mesa worked out all of the bugs in the circuits before they brought it out for sale. I have many Mesa amps and have not had any issues with them, except for one, the Mark V90.
I did not, I just had it back to back with the blues deluxe.
I just tried it again, let it warm up a lot, left the volume and gain up on channel 2 mode mark VII to about 2 o clock and just let it sit. After about 45 minutes I plugged into my board and began playing. I turned all 3 channels up again and smacked it around, louder than I was playing when it cut out: absolutely nothing. I tried shaking it around, tapping it, wiggling all the tubes, nothing at all. I am so beyond confused. Wiggled the speaker wires too. Everything is fine as of right now. I can’t even imagine what could be wrong. Maybe something is a hair loose and got knocked by travel/playing loudly for a longer period of time?
No idea. I mailed mesa back and told them what I tried. Definitely would be nice to just say “it’s a fluke, all is good!” But I feel like this is a problem which will come back again
Interesting again. You have a gremlin.
Plugged into a board, is this an array of effects or is it a single processor? When other stuff gets added in the mix, that can also be the culprit. I assume you are using the FX loop? If you are, anything in the chain could result in the amp cutting from signal loss while the FX loop is on. Sorry if this is redundant.
Did you have this issue without any effects or external devices in use? If yes, then it is probable this issue may arise again. If not, and the issue was present with external devices in the FX loop or on the front end, yeah, that just adds to the complexity.
If you continue to have issue but find it is not the amp, it may be in the signal chain. I could assume the FX send level is close to the JP2C which is above the consumer grade line level -8dBu range. That may work fine with some instrument level devices but not all of them. The louder you get the amp going, the louder the send level will get. If the device in the FX loop cannot handle the signal level, it could cut out if it has any built-in overload protection. Just an idea as I have no proof on that. Most will just get saturated and overdrive the input buffer and compress the signal. Depends on the effect and what its tolerance is. If your gear can handle +8dBu that will not be an issue.
So the question now becomes, were you using any effects in the loop when the issue first occurred?
I assumed you were just using the amp without any sound enhancements (FX devices).
Plugged into a board, is this an array of effects or is it a single processor? When other stuff gets added in the mix, that can also be the culprit. I assume you are using the FX loop? If you are, anything in the chain could result in the amp cutting from signal loss while the FX loop is on. Sorry if this is redundant.
Did you have this issue without any effects or external devices in use? If yes, then it is probable this issue may arise again. If not, and the issue was present with external devices in the FX loop or on the front end, yeah, that just adds to the complexity.
If you continue to have issue but find it is not the amp, it may be in the signal chain. I could assume the FX send level is close to the JP2C which is above the consumer grade line level -8dBu range. That may work fine with some instrument level devices but not all of them. The louder you get the amp going, the louder the send level will get. If the device in the FX loop cannot handle the signal level, it could cut out if it has any built-in overload protection. Just an idea as I have no proof on that. Most will just get saturated and overdrive the input buffer and compress the signal. Depends on the effect and what its tolerance is. If your gear can handle +8dBu that will not be an issue.
So the question now becomes, were you using any effects in the loop when the issue first occurred?
I assumed you were just using the amp without any sound enhancements (FX devices).
The signal chain is a moot point, because after it started, I unplugged from my board and went right into the front. The issue persisted.
My other guitar player plugged in his guitar- issue remained. Even tried a different cable.
My thing is: there is an outlet we determined is bad power. A week ago, my other guitarist plugged his marshall head into this outlet and his amp didn’t turn on at all- zero sound, nothing.
It’s worth mentioning though, that I switched outlets and it was still a problem. I’m at a loss here
Interesting.
I would just replace the speaker when you get it. If that comes back, it would be internal to the amp.
If the cut-out returns after you replace the speaker (assuming that is the plan) it would be more or less an internal amp problem, that is a warranty repair issue.
I would just replace the speaker when you get it. If that comes back, it would be internal to the amp.
If the cut-out returns after you replace the speaker (assuming that is the plan) it would be more or less an internal amp problem, that is a warranty repair issue.
Precisely what the kind mesa rep said. Will do
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