I did the mid mod last night to my LSS. First impressions are great, much more balanced through the mids and bass but it was only at low volume. I will post back after my gig tonight on how it goes at working volume. Good stuff!!
'Flabby/Muddy' Bass on the Lonestar? Want to change it?
- Thread starter Charles Reeder
- Start date
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thirstypirate
Well-known member
I finally made it back to where sailors belong, which sucks, but on the bright side I got to do the mod tonight and I'm very pleased with the results. The change was subtle and sweet and I kind of feel bad for the guys trying to sleep whose berthing is above the space were we keep amps while I gave it a good one over cranked up pretty loud.
It stands out the most on ch2 with the drive on and a nice gritty tone, but I also was getting a clearer more pronouced low freq response on the clean channel with all the other wonderful harmonics unchanged ala Jerry Garcia. (awesome!)
Thanks again Charles.
(DJW, I skipped the Greek wine this time and just drank Jim Beam in my hotel room and practiced guitar. If you know any Sicilian wines PM for future reference!)
It stands out the most on ch2 with the drive on and a nice gritty tone, but I also was getting a clearer more pronouced low freq response on the clean channel with all the other wonderful harmonics unchanged ala Jerry Garcia. (awesome!)
Thanks again Charles.
(DJW, I skipped the Greek wine this time and just drank Jim Beam in my hotel room and practiced guitar. If you know any Sicilian wines PM for future reference!)
Chrissmoth
Well-known member
Gentlemen
A complete success has been achieved
But perhaps not quite in the way I expected
On disassembling my amp I found that the previous owner had already performed the Reeder II mod – I re-wired and installed a switch such that I could hear the difference between the two set ups.
At the volume I can get my amp to in the house i.e. things falling off shelves, neighbours banging on the walls etc – this is only about 2 (8-O’clock) on the volume level. I personally couldn’t hear a difference between the two – however cranked at a gig this might be a different story.
Also bare in mind that the Subway Blues I have is a non-master volume, one-channel amp and as such has no gain control – if you want drive you simply have to have volume – ask Pete Townshend about this.
As I could detect little difference (at low volume at least) I’ve taken the switch out & just hard-wired it (as was) to the Reeder mod – I’ll go with Charles & Plan-X on this, I trust these guys.
The parallel resistor is a different story.
I had realised on my way to the shop that a 10K mid pot setting must already be available with the existing 0 to 25K mid pot – but I kinda carried on regardless.
When I got home yesterday I started wiring up as the diagrams above but two things hampered progress
A: The guy in the shop gave me a 68K resistor instead of 6.8K.
B: The mini switches I bought were far too feeble for the job – the one I tried the switchable Reeder mod with simply fell apart after I removed it.
So I made the executive decision to go with just the 10K resistor in parallel with the mid pot – 25K pot in parallel with a 10K resistor
This gives a value of 7K – very close to the 6.8K value of the Fender amps that had no mid control (quoted in Charles’ first post in this thread)
As the switches I had bought weren’t up to the job I rummaged around and found the switch that I taken out of my wah pedal when I converted it to true bypass
Then a little light bulb came on & I thought “ why don’t I make this mid shift foot-switchable?”
So I did.
The results:
To test - I set my amp with the bass & treble @ 12 O’clock & the middle on maximum – so I could definitely hear the difference.
Normally I wouldn’t set the controls this way. The mid would be set about 9 O’clock.
I used my “Antoria Rockstar” ( a quality 335 copy) & no effects – Just Guitar-Lead-Amp.
With the footswitch set to the 7K mid pot setting the sound was pure 1960s – I’ve never played it before but suddenly I’m playing “Bad Moon Rising” & it sounds Fantastic!
I played a little bit of bluesy scale kinda lead stuff and then switched to the 25K (original) setting & the whole thing just took off!!!!!!
Inadvertently what I seem to have achieved a foot-switchable “mid boost” option that makes your solo stuff just take off.
Wow!
Thanks to Charles for sending me down this route & of course to Bear for working out the wiring
I hope the neighbours aren’t planning an early night...
A complete success has been achieved
But perhaps not quite in the way I expected
On disassembling my amp I found that the previous owner had already performed the Reeder II mod – I re-wired and installed a switch such that I could hear the difference between the two set ups.
At the volume I can get my amp to in the house i.e. things falling off shelves, neighbours banging on the walls etc – this is only about 2 (8-O’clock) on the volume level. I personally couldn’t hear a difference between the two – however cranked at a gig this might be a different story.
Also bare in mind that the Subway Blues I have is a non-master volume, one-channel amp and as such has no gain control – if you want drive you simply have to have volume – ask Pete Townshend about this.
As I could detect little difference (at low volume at least) I’ve taken the switch out & just hard-wired it (as was) to the Reeder mod – I’ll go with Charles & Plan-X on this, I trust these guys.
The parallel resistor is a different story.
I had realised on my way to the shop that a 10K mid pot setting must already be available with the existing 0 to 25K mid pot – but I kinda carried on regardless.
When I got home yesterday I started wiring up as the diagrams above but two things hampered progress
A: The guy in the shop gave me a 68K resistor instead of 6.8K.
B: The mini switches I bought were far too feeble for the job – the one I tried the switchable Reeder mod with simply fell apart after I removed it.
So I made the executive decision to go with just the 10K resistor in parallel with the mid pot – 25K pot in parallel with a 10K resistor
This gives a value of 7K – very close to the 6.8K value of the Fender amps that had no mid control (quoted in Charles’ first post in this thread)
As the switches I had bought weren’t up to the job I rummaged around and found the switch that I taken out of my wah pedal when I converted it to true bypass
Then a little light bulb came on & I thought “ why don’t I make this mid shift foot-switchable?”
So I did.
The results:
To test - I set my amp with the bass & treble @ 12 O’clock & the middle on maximum – so I could definitely hear the difference.
Normally I wouldn’t set the controls this way. The mid would be set about 9 O’clock.
I used my “Antoria Rockstar” ( a quality 335 copy) & no effects – Just Guitar-Lead-Amp.
With the footswitch set to the 7K mid pot setting the sound was pure 1960s – I’ve never played it before but suddenly I’m playing “Bad Moon Rising” & it sounds Fantastic!
I played a little bit of bluesy scale kinda lead stuff and then switched to the 25K (original) setting & the whole thing just took off!!!!!!
Inadvertently what I seem to have achieved a foot-switchable “mid boost” option that makes your solo stuff just take off.
Wow!
Thanks to Charles for sending me down this route & of course to Bear for working out the wiring
I hope the neighbours aren’t planning an early night...
plan-x
Well-known member
"Bad moon arising" Awesome classic clean. Cool R&D work Chrissmoth. This might be the solution to Pine's current thread about replacing the speaker to eliminate the low mid issues. Charles pulled out a dusty old Jensen with a dipped low mids curve with some success or victory. But for a few pennies, the issue might be addressed with the Chrissmoth mod. How about the "moth mod" Lol. The mod combined with a switch is very intriguing. Ya know, the Rat shack(Radio shack) just closed up in my town earlier this summer. Well, even tho the nearest one is 90mi away, there's always cyber shopping.
Charles Reeder
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Some thoughts on the idea of duplicating the 'mod that 'Chrissmoth' did with the mids on his 'Subway Blues' on a Lonestar amp.
The Lonestar series starts out with a 10K midrange pot; whereas the Subway Blues has a 25K midrange pot.
So, you would either have to get a 25K pot and duplicate the steps that Chrossmoth took......precisely....or.......
Use the stock 10K pot that is in the Lonestar and use a higher value resistor than he used...(which you wire to switch into the circuit in parallel).
A 90K resistor wired in parallel with the 10K resistor would yield approx 25K...but good luck finding one in the current crop of electronics stores!
Using a 100K resistor (readily available) instead would yield 27.5K (close enough). The actual values of resistors varies anyway by 5% to 10%...so it's a 'crap-shoot' making an exact match anyhow!
As to 'pine's' situation; (I may be wrong...but) I believe the 10K pot in the Lonestar is the optimum midrange pot for what he wants (a 400HZ dip). I believe the HIGHER the value of the pot=the higher mid-hump you have. (someone PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong) He might want to try a 20K resistor in parallel with his 10K pot...that would drop his value to 7.5K...which might (or might not) improve things noticeably.
Irregardless...the 'Moth-Man-Mod'...oops!... the 'Chrissmoth Mod', does open the door to plenty of creative speculation...and I imagine some adventurous rascals will be doing some trial-mods based upon his 'midrange-tone-journey' soon!
Charles
The Lonestar series starts out with a 10K midrange pot; whereas the Subway Blues has a 25K midrange pot.
So, you would either have to get a 25K pot and duplicate the steps that Chrossmoth took......precisely....or.......
Use the stock 10K pot that is in the Lonestar and use a higher value resistor than he used...(which you wire to switch into the circuit in parallel).
A 90K resistor wired in parallel with the 10K resistor would yield approx 25K...but good luck finding one in the current crop of electronics stores!
Using a 100K resistor (readily available) instead would yield 27.5K (close enough). The actual values of resistors varies anyway by 5% to 10%...so it's a 'crap-shoot' making an exact match anyhow!
As to 'pine's' situation; (I may be wrong...but) I believe the 10K pot in the Lonestar is the optimum midrange pot for what he wants (a 400HZ dip). I believe the HIGHER the value of the pot=the higher mid-hump you have. (someone PLEASE correct me if I'm wrong) He might want to try a 20K resistor in parallel with his 10K pot...that would drop his value to 7.5K...which might (or might not) improve things noticeably.
Irregardless...the 'Moth-Man-Mod'...oops!... the 'Chrissmoth Mod', does open the door to plenty of creative speculation...and I imagine some adventurous rascals will be doing some trial-mods based upon his 'midrange-tone-journey' soon!
Charles
Charles!!
I reported awhile back that after the Mid Mod that I had a buzzing coming from my LSS amp after this Mod!!---- It’s some kind of ground short (I think?); ------ If I touch the strings on my guitar or the metal on the LSS amp the buzzing is gone!! (This sucks)-------- After checking the chassis screw and V-1Tube (The chassis bolt was tight and I replaced the V-1 tube) after checking bolt, changing the v-1 tube, --- I’m getting the same Buzzing noise!!! (yeeks) I assuming the original V-1 tube is good!) I Re Solder the jumper wire back on the Mid pot again, I looked everything over and took my time and I can’t see anything wrong??-- I hate to report that I still have this mind numbing buzzing still coming from the amp!!------- I didn't take the pots apart as you suggested; I would just rather just buy some new ones from mesa, before taking these apart!! ------- (Do you know if they sell them?) Anyway I'm bummed out because of this!!------ I did the other Mod that switched pots and was total success; I don’t know what to do to fix this issue!! Do you think new Mid pots would fix the buzzing!!
I reported awhile back that after the Mid Mod that I had a buzzing coming from my LSS amp after this Mod!!---- It’s some kind of ground short (I think?); ------ If I touch the strings on my guitar or the metal on the LSS amp the buzzing is gone!! (This sucks)-------- After checking the chassis screw and V-1Tube (The chassis bolt was tight and I replaced the V-1 tube) after checking bolt, changing the v-1 tube, --- I’m getting the same Buzzing noise!!! (yeeks) I assuming the original V-1 tube is good!) I Re Solder the jumper wire back on the Mid pot again, I looked everything over and took my time and I can’t see anything wrong??-- I hate to report that I still have this mind numbing buzzing still coming from the amp!!------- I didn't take the pots apart as you suggested; I would just rather just buy some new ones from mesa, before taking these apart!! ------- (Do you know if they sell them?) Anyway I'm bummed out because of this!!------ I did the other Mod that switched pots and was total success; I don’t know what to do to fix this issue!! Do you think new Mid pots would fix the buzzing!!
Charles Reeder
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Hey woody:
I honestly don't now if you have a bad pot or not...but excess heat during soldering/unsoldering could have 'fried' one of them...and produce the buzzing you describe.
Taking pots apart to clean them is rather tricky...and replacement really is better in the long run. I've done a few...but had about a 50% success/failure rate.
Yes, Mesa sells the pots...but it might take a while to get them and cost you a bit too! The part number is #591278 for the midrange pots in the Lonestar. (can be found on the last page in the manual).
But, if you live anywhere near a decent electronics store... you could get the pots there...quicker and cheaper.
For the midrange you need a '10K audio-taper potentiometer'.
If you do decide to buy locally...it might be best to have one of your Mesa pots with you...to make sure that the shaft length matches up.
If you replace one...you might as well replace them both...they're not that expensive.
I'm really sorry you are having to endure this odyssey and hope you get it fixed soon!
Regards: Charles
I honestly don't now if you have a bad pot or not...but excess heat during soldering/unsoldering could have 'fried' one of them...and produce the buzzing you describe.
Taking pots apart to clean them is rather tricky...and replacement really is better in the long run. I've done a few...but had about a 50% success/failure rate.
Yes, Mesa sells the pots...but it might take a while to get them and cost you a bit too! The part number is #591278 for the midrange pots in the Lonestar. (can be found on the last page in the manual).
But, if you live anywhere near a decent electronics store... you could get the pots there...quicker and cheaper.
For the midrange you need a '10K audio-taper potentiometer'.
If you do decide to buy locally...it might be best to have one of your Mesa pots with you...to make sure that the shaft length matches up.
If you replace one...you might as well replace them both...they're not that expensive.
I'm really sorry you are having to endure this odyssey and hope you get it fixed soon!
Regards: Charles
Dr. Tweedbucket
Well-known member
ja22y said:
I think it is to a degree. I put a Celestion Gold in my LSS and it sounds much better in the bass dept. I too don't run my bass about about 9 oclock.
Dr. Tweedbucket
Well-known member
I really hate doing more than one mod at a time because it's hard to tell what did what. I was too lazy to do the Ch. 2 pot swap mod, put the amp back together, then tear it apart again and do the mid control strap mod, so I just finished both. :lol: HOLY CRAP !! this amp has really changed character!! :shock:
When I first got this amp I was thinking, wow! This is a great little amp as long as you keep all the gains, and eq knobs south of 12 oclock, otherwise it loses it's focus. Both of these mods really did the trick in cleaning things up. The flubby bass was a big issue with me and I can't get this thing to flub out at all anymore. It seems that on Ch. 2 the overdrive sounds tighter if you use the drive pot rather than more gain, but still this has turned into a MONSTER of an amp!
Thanks Charles for your sharing the secrets to unlock the potential in this amp. The mods were super easy (if you know how to solder). I did make one mistake, and that was one of the leads from ch. 2 shorted to the bottom of the ch. 1 pot, so I didn't have any Ch. 2 at first .... there isn't much room for any excess lead going though that terminal.
Rock on! Both mods are highly recommended! :!:
When I first got this amp I was thinking, wow! This is a great little amp as long as you keep all the gains, and eq knobs south of 12 oclock, otherwise it loses it's focus. Both of these mods really did the trick in cleaning things up. The flubby bass was a big issue with me and I can't get this thing to flub out at all anymore. It seems that on Ch. 2 the overdrive sounds tighter if you use the drive pot rather than more gain, but still this has turned into a MONSTER of an amp!
Thanks Charles for your sharing the secrets to unlock the potential in this amp. The mods were super easy (if you know how to solder). I did make one mistake, and that was one of the leads from ch. 2 shorted to the bottom of the ch. 1 pot, so I didn't have any Ch. 2 at first .... there isn't much room for any excess lead going though that terminal.
Rock on! Both mods are highly recommended! :!:
plan-x
Well-known member
I am really enjoying seeing the satisfied modders as of late. And the nay sayers have fallen away who plagued this thread in the early days. My hats off to you guys. I would have to say that one poor guy has had some bad luck (Woody) and hope he gets it fixed. As if a gremlin has plagued his amp. Hey Woody, besides the fried pot therory, is it possible that the guitar or chord could be at fault.
Charles Reeder
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Hey woody:
I'm just grasping at straws here but:
Have you checked your reverb connections...both at the pan...and on the underside of the chassis... to make sure they're good and tight?
Be sure you hooked them back up correctly too. The reverb wires plug into the chassis one behind another...and the white reverb wire should be closest to you when plugged in correctly. (when viewed from the back)
Also...did you make certain that your midrange pots (especially the one on channel-2) are in straight? It's rather tight working in there... and if the pot was put in a little crooked it wouldn't make good contact with the front of the chassis...and might 'buzz'.
Make certain that when you re-assembled the chassis to the cabinet...that you did not cause any of the 'foil' that lines the underside to drop or 'fold' back and make contact with any of the components inside the chassis.
Verify that you rewired the pots correctly...when you removed the jumper. With the 'mod' removed... there should now be one gray wire connected to the contact on the left of the midrange pot...and one gray wire connected to the center contact, There should be no wire connected to the contact on the right.
Even if none of these things is the problem...give the amp a close scrutiny. It sure sounds as if your problem is some minor little oversight such as one of the above.
Keep us posted...we're all concerned!
Charles
I'm just grasping at straws here but:
Have you checked your reverb connections...both at the pan...and on the underside of the chassis... to make sure they're good and tight?
Be sure you hooked them back up correctly too. The reverb wires plug into the chassis one behind another...and the white reverb wire should be closest to you when plugged in correctly. (when viewed from the back)
Also...did you make certain that your midrange pots (especially the one on channel-2) are in straight? It's rather tight working in there... and if the pot was put in a little crooked it wouldn't make good contact with the front of the chassis...and might 'buzz'.
Make certain that when you re-assembled the chassis to the cabinet...that you did not cause any of the 'foil' that lines the underside to drop or 'fold' back and make contact with any of the components inside the chassis.
Verify that you rewired the pots correctly...when you removed the jumper. With the 'mod' removed... there should now be one gray wire connected to the contact on the left of the midrange pot...and one gray wire connected to the center contact, There should be no wire connected to the contact on the right.
Even if none of these things is the problem...give the amp a close scrutiny. It sure sounds as if your problem is some minor little oversight such as one of the above.
Keep us posted...we're all concerned!
Charles
Charles, can I ask you to explain what the mod is doing on somewhat more technical level? I have a Lonestar 2x12 combo and currently run my bass either off or at 9am max. Timmons does this as well.
I always thought the different posts on a pot were redundant. So, therefore I assumed they were all the same. And, if so, what would accomplished by connecting two of them. Clearly naive I know. I'll probably try this mod when I get my amp back from the shop but I'm just curious as to the "why" it works.
Thanks.
Dave
I always thought the different posts on a pot were redundant. So, therefore I assumed they were all the same. And, if so, what would accomplished by connecting two of them. Clearly naive I know. I'll probably try this mod when I get my amp back from the shop but I'm just curious as to the "why" it works.
Thanks.
Dave
Charles Reeder
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'CudBucket' wrote:
Quote:
"Charles, can I ask you to explain what the mod is doing on somewhat more technical level? I have a Lonestar 2x12 combo and currently run my bass either off or at 9am max. Timmons does this as well.
I always thought the different posts on a pot were redundant. So, therefore I assumed they were all the same. And, if so, what would accomplished by connecting two of them. Clearly naive I know. I'll probably try this mod when I get my amp back from the shop but I'm just curious as to the "why" it works." Dave
Un-Quote:
Well...Dave:
As the old expression goes...there are no stupid questions...only stupid answers! Your question is a good one...and perfectly reasonable...but unfortunately...I can't answer it...because I simply don't know. (That was my 'stupid answer! Ha Ha!)
I informed everyone of my ignorance about electronics when I posted my first mod (Lonestar Channel-2 'mod')...so I am repeating it here. I'm ignorant!
I can tell you that many-many 'self-professed-experts' posted that my original Lonestar Channel-2 'mod' simply would not work! They said it just couldn't possibly do what was claimed for it. Well...I think their comments serve as proof of the old adage that 'A little bit of knowledge is dangerous'. It gets people 'puffed up' with self, and they tend to grossly overestimate their own knowledge and understanding of something. Worse yet...they tend to share it with everyone!
Countless people who have done the Lonestar Channel-2 'mod' have attested to it's effectiveness. Well...it's much the same for this one...the (midrange-pot mid/bass) 'mod' as well...it does work. Why? I don't exactly know...
But; I don't know how many things work...but I take it on faith that they do. There's nothing wrong with wanting to know why...just don't let it get in the way of doing the 'mod' if it sounds like what you might want/need. If you do it and don't like it...simply 'snip' the wire...and you're back to 'normal'.
Regards: Charles
Quote:
"Charles, can I ask you to explain what the mod is doing on somewhat more technical level? I have a Lonestar 2x12 combo and currently run my bass either off or at 9am max. Timmons does this as well.
I always thought the different posts on a pot were redundant. So, therefore I assumed they were all the same. And, if so, what would accomplished by connecting two of them. Clearly naive I know. I'll probably try this mod when I get my amp back from the shop but I'm just curious as to the "why" it works." Dave
Un-Quote:
Well...Dave:
As the old expression goes...there are no stupid questions...only stupid answers! Your question is a good one...and perfectly reasonable...but unfortunately...I can't answer it...because I simply don't know. (That was my 'stupid answer! Ha Ha!)
I informed everyone of my ignorance about electronics when I posted my first mod (Lonestar Channel-2 'mod')...so I am repeating it here. I'm ignorant!
I can tell you that many-many 'self-professed-experts' posted that my original Lonestar Channel-2 'mod' simply would not work! They said it just couldn't possibly do what was claimed for it. Well...I think their comments serve as proof of the old adage that 'A little bit of knowledge is dangerous'. It gets people 'puffed up' with self, and they tend to grossly overestimate their own knowledge and understanding of something. Worse yet...they tend to share it with everyone!
Countless people who have done the Lonestar Channel-2 'mod' have attested to it's effectiveness. Well...it's much the same for this one...the (midrange-pot mid/bass) 'mod' as well...it does work. Why? I don't exactly know...
But; I don't know how many things work...but I take it on faith that they do. There's nothing wrong with wanting to know why...just don't let it get in the way of doing the 'mod' if it sounds like what you might want/need. If you do it and don't like it...simply 'snip' the wire...and you're back to 'normal'.
Regards: Charles
Thanks for the honest response Charles. I did read a bit of the initial mod thread as well.
I may do the mod when I get my amp back simply because it's easy and hey, why not? It might actually sound better to me.
I don't make assumptions about mods one way or the other since we all hear things differently. That's why I think some folks hear a difference in a mod and some don't.
Thanks.
Dave
I may do the mod when I get my amp back simply because it's easy and hey, why not? It might actually sound better to me.
I don't make assumptions about mods one way or the other since we all hear things differently. That's why I think some folks hear a difference in a mod and some don't.
Thanks.
Dave
Charles Reeder
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Hey Cudbucket:
I just wanted to clear something up...
You Wrote:
"I don't make assumptions about mods one way or the other since we all hear things differently. (That's why I think some folks hear a difference in a mod and some don't.)"
In reference to the second sentence above which I placed (in parenthesis).
EVERYONE who has done either 'mod' has heard a difference! The 'experts' who kept insisting that the Channel-2 'mod' would not change anything...hadn't even bothered to do the 'mod'! They gave unfounded opinions based upon limited knowledge. Hence my remark that "a little knowledge is dangerous". These same 'experts' then told those of us who had done the 'mod' (and loved it) that we were imagining things! Some of them didn't even own a Lonestar...but they still found it necessary to comment on something they knew nothing about.
Of those who have done the Channel-2 'mod'...almost everyone has liked the amp better after the 'mod'...but there were exceptions. A few Lonestar owners preferred the amp as it was before the 'mod'. Their choice should be respected (tone is subjective after all)...but note that they too heard enough of a difference to change their amps back!
The 'midrange-pot mid/bass mod' is founded on the basis of altering the way the tone controls work to emulate many of the classic Fender amps. It is not anything new, radical or revolutionary...it is old knowledge. I merely 'stole' the idea from the 'Unofficial Fender Hotrod Deluxe site' and adapted it to the Lonestar. The difference between before and after is more subtle than the Channel-2 mod I presented...but it is a discernible difference...which becomes more pronounced the louder you play.
As to how I came up with the Lonestar Channel-2 mod?...I am observant..and noticed the reversal of the placement of the pots in the Mesa manual. I wondered if perhaps this reversal might be chiefly responsible for the marked difference in the sound of the 2 channels on the Lonestar.
So you see; I am not an electronics expert or an amp 'guru'...which is why I could not give you a good technical reason for my 'mods' working. I just have a 'knack' for 'noticing things' and finding practical applications for the things that I see and read.
Regards: Charles
I just wanted to clear something up...
You Wrote:
"I don't make assumptions about mods one way or the other since we all hear things differently. (That's why I think some folks hear a difference in a mod and some don't.)"
In reference to the second sentence above which I placed (in parenthesis).
EVERYONE who has done either 'mod' has heard a difference! The 'experts' who kept insisting that the Channel-2 'mod' would not change anything...hadn't even bothered to do the 'mod'! They gave unfounded opinions based upon limited knowledge. Hence my remark that "a little knowledge is dangerous". These same 'experts' then told those of us who had done the 'mod' (and loved it) that we were imagining things! Some of them didn't even own a Lonestar...but they still found it necessary to comment on something they knew nothing about.
Of those who have done the Channel-2 'mod'...almost everyone has liked the amp better after the 'mod'...but there were exceptions. A few Lonestar owners preferred the amp as it was before the 'mod'. Their choice should be respected (tone is subjective after all)...but note that they too heard enough of a difference to change their amps back!
The 'midrange-pot mid/bass mod' is founded on the basis of altering the way the tone controls work to emulate many of the classic Fender amps. It is not anything new, radical or revolutionary...it is old knowledge. I merely 'stole' the idea from the 'Unofficial Fender Hotrod Deluxe site' and adapted it to the Lonestar. The difference between before and after is more subtle than the Channel-2 mod I presented...but it is a discernible difference...which becomes more pronounced the louder you play.
As to how I came up with the Lonestar Channel-2 mod?...I am observant..and noticed the reversal of the placement of the pots in the Mesa manual. I wondered if perhaps this reversal might be chiefly responsible for the marked difference in the sound of the 2 channels on the Lonestar.
So you see; I am not an electronics expert or an amp 'guru'...which is why I could not give you a good technical reason for my 'mods' working. I just have a 'knack' for 'noticing things' and finding practical applications for the things that I see and read.
Regards: Charles
I got my Lonestar back from the shop yesterday. I'm happy to have it back in proper working condition. Unfortunately, while it was in the shop, I only had a Roland MicroCube to play with. So I was using a modeller amp with tight, tight bass and high gain.
By comparison now, the Lonestar feels flubby. I never felt this way about the amp before. So I'll play it for a few days and acclimate myself to it again and then try the mod.
Thanks.
Dave
By comparison now, the Lonestar feels flubby. I never felt this way about the amp before. So I'll play it for a few days and acclimate myself to it again and then try the mod.
Thanks.
Dave
Bicycle
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I just did the mid mod (and i also did the first mod too). I knew it right away with the different at the normal volume because i know this amp so how on how it sounds. The mid-bass is tight on ch2 with drive engage no blur on mid anymore, usually when mid pass 12'o clock the sound will become muddy. Now it's very shine and i think i'll stay this way as it bring this amp to life.
I would recommend to anyone cause if you don't like it you just change them back, also the sound after mod you won't get them with the original amp but in return with the mod amp you will get any sound like wise 6L6 amp can do.
Thanks to Charles who sharing this to the world so people like me who is on another side of the world could get the benifit from his knowledge.
Regards,
Dune from Bangkok
I would recommend to anyone cause if you don't like it you just change them back, also the sound after mod you won't get them with the original amp but in return with the mod amp you will get any sound like wise 6L6 amp can do.
Thanks to Charles who sharing this to the world so people like me who is on another side of the world could get the benifit from his knowledge.
Regards,
Dune from Bangkok
thirstypirate
Well-known member
nu-tra said:
Since it is so easy to reverse the mod I would suggest you give yourself a little time to figure out the best way to setup your tone after the mod. The brightness can be calmed while still leaving all the lush overtones the mod gives Ch 2.
That's just my ears, though, and you might like the stock way better. Enjoy the experiment!
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