Serious Problem Please Help (Triaxis Lead 1 RED)

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ibanezgtr

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I just got my triaxis everything sounds great, except for Lead 1 Red mode. It sounds dead, barely there and blown away by every other mode at the same settings. I can get a little distortion out of it with it up to 10, but that's it. I switched the tubes around and it didn't change a thing, I opened it up to make sure nothing was loose. These were things that MESA told me to try. They want me to send it to them, but I just got it, and really don't want to, plus I have shows and practice weekly. Can anyone help me fix the problem? Also do many of you use Led 1 red? Please help. Thanks

Mark
 
The only thing for troubleshooting anyone can really tell you to do IMO is to check your tubes (V1 is the only one specific to LD1R). This is of course assuming you don't have a background in electronics. The schematics are posted at tubefreak.com but if you don't understand them your best bet is to go to a good tech that knows the triaxis or send it to mesa.

I have a couple of LD1R presets(i have the non phat recto board) but I am really stuck on the LD2 channels right now. I really like both green and orange but red can be cool too. Having just acquired the 2:90 power amp it seems the deep mode really brings out the lows when playing at low volumes (i haven't tried it loud yet because of my living conditions) but i imagine it would sound like mush live. If the preamp just had all the LD2's and the Rh green and orange I would be happy as the LD1 settings are just a bonus to me.

Greg
 
Normally on a version 2.0 or later, the LEad 1 Red is the recto mode. It normally has a lower volume output than lead 2 modes but that acn be compensated for. Lead 1 red however should have alot of gain available. Make sure you raise the gain on lead 1 drive control and not just the master gain.

With that said, I'm not crazy about the Lead 1 red and normally don't use it. It sounds very thin compared to the lead 2 modes. It can be ok depending on how you use it but when sticking a mic in front of a cab, I never use lead 1 red.
 
bet for the optoacopleurs, go to your nearest electronics shop or mesa seller and ask for vactrol optoacopleurs 5c9 then replace on the recto board ( the smaller upper the tubes ) the optos labeled with ldr1 and ldr6. They splits the signal into the lead1red or the all other 7 modes, if you only have a loose on that the lead1red, your trouble is that, because the tube1 is for all the lead 1 modes.
Also check the tube3 triode b because is the triode for the tone on that mode.
But I could bet 10:1 that your trouble is on that optos
 
Thanks guys, I found someone who had the same problem, he said to clean the ribbon connectors with deoxit and that should fix the mode. Has anyone else done this? I need to find the ribbon for the lead 1 red mode though.. I'll try it after my show at the Whisky in Hollywood this Thursday, don't want to create a bigger problem. Thanks
 
I had a problem with my TX where I could change presets/pregrams and make changes, but the enter button would not work. I could not save changes to patches. When you take the top cover off you will see a bunch of wires coming off the front membrane switch face. There is a very thin multi-striped cable about 1.5 inches wide or so. On mine I did just what was mentioned above...I used deoxit on the end connectors of this cable and cleaned the contacts and then re-inserted the cable into the connector on the board.

De-oxit is the best contact cleaner I have found thus far. You can find it at tubesandmore.com

Cleaning that cable fixed my problem. Careful with the cable. It is quite thin and fragile.

Erik
 
I tried using deoxit on the ribbon connectors and it doesn't seem to fix the problem of my lead 1 red sounding weak and dead, compared to all other modes. I tried pulling the ribbon connector out a little and the lead 1 red comes back to life for a second and then I push it in it goes away. Could I have a bad ribbon? Does anyone have a pic of the Triaxis and could point out the Lead one circuit board or what ribbons will effect Lead 1 red. I am just going by ear. So I know it isn't a tube problem for sure, because I hear it fixed, for a second. Thanks.
 
The TX4 is the board for lead1 red. You may have a failing part that only works when the voltage drops in the caps. Just be careful with sticking your hands around in there as there's enough voltage to cause some serious damage to yourself.


Greg
 
I don't really know what TX4 means, is it on the top or under other boards? Also if you are looking at the face of the Triaxis where is it located? Thanks
 
TX4 is what is written on the circuit board for the lead1 red circuit. It is elevated in the air and near the tubes in the back of the unit.


Greg
 
I just got another bad Triaxis recently...Theres a Gain loss and dead Ld 1 Red mode... I also tried pulling the ribbon cable a little bit on the TX4D and got the same result as you..

I'm sending back my triaxis to mesa.They said TriAxis issues are often caused by IC chips going down (Z80, ADART etc.)
 
Thanks for the help about the TX4. Disassembled

Triodal please Let me know how much they charge you, and how long it takes to get back, and what the problem is exactly, when you here back from Mesa. I can't send it to them right now without a backup, and am not sure if I would really use Lead 1 red much to really matter right now. Does anyone think this is something I might be able to fix myself after hearing more about it? I am going to try replacing a ribbon, because that sounds like the problem to me. Mesa said 2 -3 weeks and $100 an hour for work, so I'm thinking I need to find a solution myself. Thanks
 
will do..the problem is probably the small yellowish caps(tantalum) below the TX4D..they appear to be overheat..
 
It is probably an LDR like previously stated. I would offer to fix it for you but I am going away for a few months and won't be able to do it. I would suggest first talking to a local amp tech and bring the schematics with you (they are posted on tubefreak.com). Boogie will fix it right but they surely will charge for it. If the problem is a bad a couple of LDR's then it should be about $10 and whatever labor charge (probably not much if the LDRs are on the TX4 board).


Good luck.

Greg
 
Thanks Greg, I think that is what I am going to do. I talked to a local guy today that feels he can fix the problem, plus Mesa is sending me a new ribbon just in case it went out.
 
Sorry for bring up this really old thread but I'm having the same problem as described and was wondering if you got your units fixed and what the problem was. Was it the optocouplers after all?
 

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