Mesa Boogie Early Mark 1 ?

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uberdave

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Hi,
Picked up this Boogie trying to determine some
more info. Especially which pre amp tubes
are V1,V2, and V3. Looks like a 60 watt with EQ.

This Boogie is a whole tone beast. Waiting on some new tubes!
This is my 2nd Mesa, also have a Blue Angel 12" combo.
Thanks.


 
Actually never pulled a chassis from a cabinet.
And yes that's is a send/ return effects loop.
Hence why I decided to post some pictures.
Like I said before I was trying to ID the correct V1, V2, and V3 locations.
I work at the shop where I purchased it. I will talk with a local repairman.
Thanks.
 
Wow! I'd love to see a gut shot (and under the chassis shot) of that, as well. I've never seen a Boogie with such a bare rear panel. In fact, I am wondering if it really is a Boogie and not some kind of knockoff.... Does it actaully have "Mesa Boogie" inscribed anywhere?
 
Hi,

V1 could also be the Fetron design and U might find a fetron switch under the chassis where the tubes mount.

Those tube-holder look much too new to be original, and I've not seen an original with them.

re fake or not - it looks so close to my own Mk1 that I had to do a double-take on the front pic..
Also agree - that rear panel looks funny without the dymo labels..

Lastly, agree with the other guys - guts shots would be superb. 4 screws on the top to remove chassis but be ready for the weight - those trannies weigh a lot..

Dave
 
Facing the back of the amp, look along the black right post that supports the chassis. There should be a serial number stamped into the wood along the side that faces the left post. Is there any writing on the top of the chassis? If you do take the chassis out, you could use the numbers found on the transformers, pots etc. to further date the amp. The presence and info found on any of the printed circuit boards can also provide clues. All the best and congrats.
 
A few years ago and now finally some chassis pics.
I sent photos to Boogie and Trent repiled that it is a Mark II, because 60 watt and EQ.
However I'm skeptical and would seek assistane from the Grailtone knowledge bank.
There a felt tip pen marking on the side of the chassis 12-10 55 G ". Please clink on the link at the bottom of the chassis gut shots.

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http://s1017.photobucket.com/user/uberdavestrat/media/IMG_0828_zpsbo17yzhu.jpg.html?sort=3&o=2
 
Definitely a mark 1.The 60 watt Mark 1 was known as the super sixty.Only after the mark 2 which introduced channel switching was it referred to as the mark 1.Surley these guys should know the history of their own amps?The Mark 1's were also available as 100w too.
 
SSG means probably 60 Watt and GEQ but I cannot guess what the middle S stands for.

Maybe, it is: Super Sixty GraphicEQ
 
Thanks for the replies. I sell guitars, pedals and amps so I like to do research to get the right
info the next buyer. So I was shocked with the initial reply from Boogie. I sent another photo
of the rear panel and told them this is no serial number to trace. I requested if there was someone like Mike Bendinelli
I could speak with who would have greater historical knowledge. Stay tuned!
 
that's a 74'-75' Mark I... the dress work and component type give it away.

they didn't exclusively use dymo labels back then.

dymos show up with consistency at the end of 1975.

for serial number they used a metallic "property tag" sticker which has fallen off.

looks beautifully all original except for the B+ caps

you have a lovely early piece of boogie history there.

here's a gut shot of my 74' Mark I, it was sold some time ago to a board member here. you can see the build similarities...

 
No worries about the confusion. I'm replacing one of the 220uF 300v
caps. Also the EV 12 weight has caused the baffle some issues. Will upgrade
with stainless steel screws with securing on the backside. Which one are the
the B+caps?
 
No worries about the confusion. I'm replacing one of the 220uF 300v
caps. Also the EV 12 weight has caused the baffle some issues. Will upgrade
with stainless steel screws with securing on the backside. Which one are
the B+caps? And really appreciate the feedback from both the board and Mesa customer service.
 
uberdave said:
Which one are
the B+caps? And really appreciate the feedback from both the board and Mesa customer service.
The B+ caps are the 2 longer black caps on the power supply board along with the 3 blue sprague atoms.Those Spragues look new so you probably only need to change the black ones.They should be 220uf's.
edit:Just noticed you said you were going to change just one of the 220uf caps?I think it would be wise to replace both and go for Spragues if you can or Mesa can get you the BMI caps that they currently use.
 
Actually when we pulled the chassis we discovered that one of B+ caps wiring had broken off.
Which would explain the amp cutting sound. Ordered a new F&T 220uF 300v cap.
Hopefully that and installing a new AC pwr cord fixes the issues. Thanks again!
 
uberdave said:
Actually when we pulled the chassis we discovered that one of B+ caps wiring had broken off.
Which would explain the amp cutting sound. Ordered a new F&T 220uF 300v cap.
Hopefully that and installing a new AC pwr cord fixes the issues. Thanks again!
I didn't know they were F&T's.I thought they were old caps and only the 30uf's had been replaced.That's good you only need the one cap then.
I'm just curious do those lifted tracks around the power tubes pose any problems?
 
Couple random thoughts..
The sby switch is at an odd angle - ? mounted rotated or mech is broken/breaking..
New white cap off phase inverter.. assume leaky cap replacement ?
Filters yr pointing to are bias and look orig - forty yr old... replace.
Someone might get date codes off the Atoms - I'm thinking Sept 2013 but could be wrong.
I'd secure +/- shield the thin red supply to SBY as it crosses the filters.. Loose mains leads are scary..

Lovetoboogie - in yr pic there's a ?earth wire crossing yr B+ lower part of pic - looks nasty close to the B+.. or camera angle?

Congrats on a bloody nics amp..!!

PS - filter cap missing not likely culprit to "cutting sound"..
 
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