Carvin Guitars

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scottkahn said:
bandit2013 said:
I am just not a big Floyd Rose fan.

Carvin offers Wilkinson tremolos on many of the guitars. It's not double locking, but with sperzel locking tuners at the headstock, they do a very good job when it comes to tuning stability, and they have a softer feel that is more like a Kahler than the feel of a Floyd tremolo. You might want to give it a try unless your whole technique is built around 80s style dive bombing.

I have almost played for 30 some years. For most of that time all my guitars had Kahlers except for the Les Paul. I got used to resting my hand on the bridge for palm muting. The Floyd would drift out of tune doing the same thing. I had a Cort 2000 (bought at a low price) with locking Floyd Rose. That was a very nice guitar but just could not live with the Floyd. What I disliked the mose was the locking nut. A Kahler lock + standard graphite nut on the neck and Floyd Rose may be something to consider. I have considered a Wilkinson. If I buy used, that would be fine. If I order new, it will be the tone-o-matic bridge set up.
 
domct203 said:
From nut to bridge is fine, it's just that it feels like the neck is too close to the body lengthwise. Maybe it's just the way it hangs over my shoulder? I feel like the nut is closer and I don't need to extend my arm as far to reach it. After 5 min or so I get used to it, but for me it's a noticable difference until I adjust.

Dom

It took me a while to get used to a 24 fret, 25" scale. Before I went to Carvin, I had an 84 Custom LP and a Charvel.
The closest I have now that reminds me of the LP is the DC100. Short body and long neck.

I have been considering either a CT624 or the SC624. Too bad you have to buy it to try it (unless you live local to there store in CA).
 
bandit2013 said:
I got used to resting my hand on the bridge for palm muting.

Something you might want to try... the Wilkinson tremolo... but then for under $100 install (or have installed) a Hipshot Tremsetter in the back of the guitar. It creates a VERY fixed return-to-zero position for floating trems and works great.
 
bandit2013 said:
I would have to say that DC200K is awsome. The one I found is from the mid 90's. I would have prefered high gloss finish but the tung oil is okay. Lemon oil every now and then brings out the flames in the wood. I would like to get another Carvin with a locking tremlo, but Kahler is not available anymore. They are back in production. I am just not a big Floyd Rose fan.


yes, they are.

go here:

http://www.wammiworld.com/

https://www.kahlerusa.com/
 
I have been there already. Purchased an upgrade for my DC200 (moved from 2300 to 7300). It is slightly different but now I can lock the trem in place with a set screw. I installed the 2300 within weeks of bringing home my first carvin guitar. It was completely tung oil finish which cleaned up nicely after installing the bridge (the original was the flat tune-o-matic similar to Fender). I still have many Kahler parts from the old guitars I used to have. I have also bought cheep guitars just for the bridge (if they were the 2300 model, although the flyer model did have some reusable parts).

I finally filled out the registration for the new DC400W and requested they offer the kahler again if at all possible.
 
domct203 said:
It's a beautiful guitar with excellent fit & finish, but for some reason the guitar feels "short" when I play it. The neck feels like it is closer to the body than I'm used to, especially when it's hanging on a strap.

I guess it is probably due to me playing nothing but a Les Paul for 25+ years prior, and not a fault of the guitar.

That big upper horn will move the guitar into a different position than a Les Paul.
 
Don said:
domct203 said:
It's a beautiful guitar with excellent fit & finish, but for some reason the guitar feels "short" when I play it. The neck feels like it is closer to the body than I'm used to, especially when it's hanging on a strap.

I guess it is probably due to me playing nothing but a Les Paul for 25+ years prior, and not a fault of the guitar.

That big upper horn will move the guitar into a different position than a Les Paul.
I think that's it exactly!

Dom
 
I just recently bought another Carvin DC400W (Claro Walnut) on Ebay. This one is a bit different than the one I bought direct from Carvin. Same build quality, Plays just as well as the new one. The previous owner replaced the Carvin pups with Seymour Duncan "Pearly Gates", as well as changed the graphite nut to a carved bone. When comparing apples to apples, the Carvin S22B and S22J pups I have on the new DC400W were by far, a better pup than the SD's. So I swapped the SD with Carvin M22V and M22SD that originally came with my DC400W. That made a big difference. The Carvin's are balanced across the strings, the SD pups were a bit weak on the outter strings regarless of pup hieght. I also had to replace the nut since it was not carved properly. I found a brass nut, shaped it up slightly for fit and proper angle, that cured the tuning issue I had. (I could not reshape the channels for the strings any further on the bone nut but I was able to improve it, appearance of it made the guitar look cheesy and it sounded the same until I replaced it.)

I guess I better request permission to post pictures.
 
bandit2013 said:
I just recently bought another Carvin DC400W (Claro Walnut) on Ebay. This one is a bit different than the one I bought direct from Carvin. Same build quality, Plays just as well as the new one. The previous owner replaced the Carvin pups with Seymour Duncan "Pearly Gates", as well as changed the graphite nut to a carved bone. When comparing apples to apples, the Carvin S22B and S22J pups I have on the new DC400W were by far, a better pup than the SD's. So I swapped the SD with Carvin M22V and M22SD that originally came with my DC400W. That made a big difference. The Carvin's are balanced across the strings, the SD pups were a bit weak on the outter strings regarless of pup hieght. I also had to replace the nut since it was not carved properly. I found a brass nut, shaped it up slightly for fit and proper angle, that cured the tuning issue I had. (I could not reshape the channels for the strings any further on the bone nut but I was able to improve it, appearance of it made the guitar look cheesy and it sounded the same until I replaced it.)

I guess I better request permission to post pictures.

I bought my DC127 Koa new in about '93 with the M22SD at the bridge and M22V at the neck. I loved the SD, but couldn't get a warm lead tone out of the V to save my life. So I swapped to a Duncan Distortion (B) and '59 (N) and it was a big improvement, although a pain, since it required minor routing of the wood! Neck-thru guitars actually have less low end response than an otherwise similar bolt-on or especially set neck guitar, so it still isn't as easy as I'd like to get the ideal neck lead sound while still having a good sound for the bridge. The best solution I have found is using the pull Bass Shift on my MkIII. It was originally designed to make single coils sound fat, although the neck-thru Carvin has extreme clarity and sounds great with it pulled! My other guitars sound too flubby with it pulled, so it always takes adjustments when switching guitars. Still, it has some of my favorite tones when I have it nicely dialed in with the MkIII. :D
 
I have noticed a definite tone difference between the two Claro Walnut DC400's. The one I bought new from Carvin had the option for the top wood to cover the neck through wood. The one I bought on Ebay has the neck showing. With that in mind, having a maple neck through guitar is similar to having the entire guitar made from maple, with slight tone variation due to the side woods. When you opt for the thick top wood to cover the neck, the tone will be much different and will take on the tone characteristic of the top wood than the neck wood. The new DC400W has pronounced bass and bright highs. The used one I bought is similar but not as deep in bass, sounds more like the DC100 which is all maple. I can get some really warm tones from the new guitar, as well as nice growling lows. The new DC400W has me in awe, it is just amazing how it sounds compared to the others. I have set up the used DC400W to be identical to the new one (same pickups and same gain setting on the active tone controls), just has a different tone.

Now for the Koa DC200, not as full bodied as the DC400W. I had considered installing the M22SD in the bridge just to get an idea what it would sound like, Since I had a preference for the metal covered S22 pups, I pulled the C22's from the DC400A and installed them on the Koa DC200. I found that the C22's are better pups than the M series. The M22SD's have a odd frequency response, a bit on the bright side with enhanced mid's, not so heavy on the bass. All of my Carvin guitars have the same active controls. I replaced the one in the DC200, and the same active control fit the DC100 without the single coil and phase switch circuit board so I had room for the battery.
 
I haven't ever played a Carvin(or seen one in real life for that matter lol) but I have many a time built a ct model on their website lol...they are just great looking guitars to me. I have also tossed the idea around of getting one of the neck-thru blanks and attempting to build something around it but that I probably a distant future kinda venture lol
 
TheMichaelAbe,
Go for it... a CT6M rivals a PRS Custom 24, and to me feels better in every possible way. Here's mine:

CT624_full.jpg


CT624_neckJoint.jpg


I also have a DC600 which is a perfect shred machine that is a cross between a Suhr Modern and Jackson Soloist.

dc600_full.jpg
 
You may be able to save some coin if you find one on Ebay to your liking. I acquired three great playing guitars by this method. I too was unsure about buying through Carvin without being able to play it first. In 2000 a friend of mine told me where I could try out a Carvin that was used. At the time, I had a few other guitars of different makes. Now all I have are Carvins. Over the years, Carvin had different neck profiles. Early 80's, the necks were moderate in thickness. More of a D profile than a rounded bat. Mid 90's they were thin. Now they are similar to the 80's. I purchased a new Carvin last year which is my favorite axe, not just for the looks, but tone, feel, and every thing in between. All but one is a neck through. This year I plan on getting two Carved top models CT and CS which are set necks. Once in a while I may go to the not so local guitar shop (closest location is 80 miles that has more than just low end instruments). I will play what ever looks of interest and compare to my Carvins. I have yet to play another guitar that I would consider to be close or above in quality of workmanship, tone or feel. Just like any guitar available, some will like them some will not. There are not many guitar manufacturers that give you options, Carvin is build to order or you can select from Guitars in stock. I prefer the 14" fret board radius, but I have one that is 10" and one that is 12". All of my guitars have Medium Jumbo Frets, there are options for those two. I prefer the Stainless over the Nickel. Three of my guitars have Stainless and two of the older ones have Nickel. I have no complaints go give about any of them.
 
scottkahn,

Your CT6 looks awesome! I am glad that you seem to be into it. I am digging the tribal inlays and blue that you have on both of your guitars(the DC600 looks sick but I don't have the fusion/Vai/80's chops to wield such a fine shred machine. I am more of a fake Slash/Joe Perry wannabe type myself lol) I really have been in the market for a guitar like the CT and probably need to just go through with it and get one but the sight unseen thing is a bit daunting to me. For the price that my Carvin builds come up with I could get a used(I actually haven't ever bought a guitar brand new) PRS Custom 242/24 or McCarty here on the local Craigslist, but something about the Carvin has always been so alluring to me. Bottom line I am looking to diversify my tonal range and there gets to be a point that you actually can have to many Les Pauls lol

Bandit,
I am hearing what you are saying man and it sounds like you have some great guitars there... I guess that for me at least, there is something to be said about changing playing style to suit a guitar. I wouldn't even know where to start with all the options available on these CT builds radius/finish/stainless vs nickle frets!...one of the things that has stopped me from the purchase is my noncommittal nature lol

The biggest problem that I have with Carvins(on paper at least) is that there are just to many options! lol
 
TheMichaelAbe said:
scottkahn,

Your CT6 looks awesome! I am glad that you seem to be into it. I am digging the tribal inlays and blue that you have on both of your guitars(the DC600 looks sick but I don't have the fusion/Vai/80's chops to wield such a fine shred machine. I am more of a fake Slash/Joe Perry wannabe type myself lol) I really have been in the market for a guitar like the CT and probably need to just go through with it and get one but the sight unseen thing is a bit daunting to me. For the price that my Carvin builds come up with I could get a used(I actually haven't ever bought a guitar brand new) PRS Custom 242/24 or McCarty here on the local Craigslist, but something about the Carvin has always been so alluring to me. Bottom line I am looking to diversify my tonal range and there gets to be a point that you actually can have to many Les Pauls lol

The biggest problem that I have with Carvins(on paper at least) is that there are just to many options! lol

Two of my senior editors at MusicPlayers.com have PRS guitars -- a Custom 24 and a Custom 22. I could have bought a PRS... I definitely prefer the CT624 to the Custom 24. There's just something I prefer about the way it feels to me, and I love that it's custom to my specs instead of the same limited range of color options that PRS provides in a production line guitar.

The key to happiness is getting neck specs that you'll like. Figure out what guitar feels most comfortable to you playing-wise in your collection or at the store and then find out what its neck specs are: radius, scale length, and size of the frets. Jumbo frets are great if you love big bluesy string bends or tapping, for example...

The inlays I picked are Carvin's custom inlay -- it's their signature inlay, so to speak.

And don't be scared because they really do have a two week money-back guaranty. No other boutique builder lets you return a custom ordered instrument for a full refund. They just add the guitar to the gallery of instruments available for immediate shipping.

Scott
 
Here's my formal review of the CT-624:

http://musicplayers.com/reviews/guitars/2012/0412_CarvinCT624.php

and the DC-600:

http://musicplayers.com/reviews/guitars/2013/0913_Carvin_DC600.php

Scott
 
scottkahn,

you should work for Carvin because you make a convincing argument in their behalf lol...I know a guy that is a PRS collector(he has like eleven different USA models and five or six imports) and I am really digging the CE series the most(with the bolt on maple neck and trem) I have more Les Pauls than any one person should have and while I love them I want something a little more versatile and liked the idea of a humbucker guitar(only like tele's for single coils) with a trem...I personally prefer to avoid Floyd Rose systems if possible but Carvin only offers the Wilkinson trem as an alternative. I had a Wilkinson on a guitar and that bridge completely fell apart and never really worked right so I am leaning more towards the good old a tune-o-matic, but getting that would cut down a little on the guitar's versatility and role as a different flavor in my already silly arsenal lol
 
Keep in mind I only wrote the CT624 review -- not the DC600 one, and all of our big guitar gear reviews involve the gear going before a panel of multiple senior editors for comments/feedback, so when an opinion is voiced -- particularly an extremely positive one -- we make sure that multiple senior staffers share that opinion.

I had one guitar with the Wilkinson and didn't have a problem -- maybe you had a bum unit or perhaps a knockoff that wasn't the real deal on an import guitar? Or maybe with the kind of abuse you give a whammy you really need a floyd? :)

I got my CT624 with the fixed bridge so that I would have the versatility of a guitar that I can do alternate tunings on whenever I need to, whereas guitars with floating trems need new setups when you deviate on the tuning more than a string and a step...
 
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