Finally found a deal on a Rectifier Recording Preamp

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vick1000

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At GC for $599, to pair with my Stereo 2:50. Are there any things to be looking (listening) out for with these? Revision differences, common issues, etc...?

It will go in the loop of my GSP1101, so I get the benefit of sending it OD/Boost, and gating everything while still tracking the guitar.

How do these compare to the 2ch Rev G heads, which I adore?
 
Congratulations! For direct recording, you will need patience. :shock: Lots of patience! If you are going to use it as your preamp in your rig I would recommend getting a Mesa 2:90 or better yet, 2:100 power amp because that is the only way to get the Modern Mode to sound Modern. There is a trigger that needs to be activated which can only be done with the 2:90 or 2:100.

Read the manual. There are tricks you can do with footswitch and explanations that only apply to this preamp.

Have fun and enjoy! Ask questions too.
 
You mean modern mode won't work without a modern mode power amp? I won't be doing anything with the recording outs.
 
The mode itself will work. It just won't sound as intended. The 'Modern' mode creates a change in the power amp (which obviously doesn't exist in the pre-amp). The 2:90 & 2:100 have a switchable 'Modern' mode for use with the recto preamp and Triaxis (and anything else that can switch the relay.)

Congrats on the find. I've been wanted to add one to my arsenal for sometime, but they don't come up too often in my neck of the woods.

~Icarus
 
OK, so got it installed, and it sounds pretty good, even with the all JJ tube complement it came with. Got six Mesas on the way to sort that out. Modern mode works well, makes a big difference, I imagine the power amp modern mode is where the rest of the change takes place, but the changes in the preamp is just the same without it.

Now one thing that has me worried, is during power up and power down (even in stand by) there is an physically audible rapid series of three or four clicks coming from the preamp. Now when it'a on the clean channel, it's only two or three clicks. It sounds almost like running your finger over a comb. I opened it up, and it looks like the fuse had blown at one time or another, because there is a slight "burn" mark on the top panel right above the internal fuse holder PCB next to the transformer. All the components look fresh and unburnt, so I am not sure what has happened.

The unit seems to function fully and perfectly, but I would return it to GC if I thought a relay is failing, or the iron is dodgy.
 
Mine has a burn mark as well. At least, that is what I suspect it to be. I have not had any problems with my preamp.

Don't all tubes make clicking sounds when they warm up and cool down?
 
Given To Fly said:
Mine has a burn mark as well. At least, that is what I suspect it to be. I have not had any problems with my preamp.

Don't all tubes make clicking sounds when they warm up and cool down?

Yes, but those are more random and more like a pinging ringing sound, and mostly power tubes.

I opened it up, after intalling all Mesa tubes, and powered it on and off to see where the noise is located. It appears to be coming from either the orange block relays, or those curve topped black things with holes in the middle, which I am assuming are chokes or filters with plastic covers.

I sounds like the relays are moving to match the amp settings when powered on, and back when powered off. If I put it in clean mode on that channel, I only get one click. If I switch it to Fat mode, I get two rapid clicks, Brit mode same two clicks. If it's on the lead channel, and in Vintage or Modern, it sounds like four rapid clicks. So it seems like the relays switching during power up and down.

It sounds bad *** BTW, with a SPAX7 in V1, and Standard Mesas in the rest of the spots. The EQ sections seem to have way more effect or range than on my 2ch Tri-rec. I can almost make all the low end disappear, which was impossible on the Tri-rec. The mid range voicing on modern is scooped, but very usable, and great with the presence dialed back on the 2:50.

I think I will call Mesa today, and ask if the reay noise is normal, and if it is I will probably keep this one unless a better on pops up for under $700 some where.
 
Relays make audible noise when they switch. There are parts moving inside to open and close the connections.
Makes sense that in different modes when turned on/off that different relays click.
 
timv said:
Relays make audible noise when they switch. There are parts moving inside to open and close the connections.
Makes sense that in different modes when turned on/off that different relays click.

Thing is, it does it even when I leave everything the same. Like they "parK" themselves in a different configuration, then come to life on power up.
 
Without power to the relay it will latch to its normally off state whatever way that is. When the relay receives power, when you turn on the preamp, the relay clicks to whatever state it needs to be in for what channel and mode is chosen.

Relays do not stay in whatever state they were in when power is removed.
 
timv said:
Without power to the relay it will latch to its normally off state whatever way that is. When the relay receives power, when you turn on the preamp, the relay clicks to whatever state it needs to be in for what channel and mode is chosen.

Relays do not stay in whatever state they were in when power is removed.

Gotcha, excellent info there, thanks.
 
Well long story short, I took it back to GC for a refund. It seemed to intoduce quite a bit of hum into my rig, probably created a ground loop, plus one of the ears was bent. Luckily one came up on ebay with no reserve, and in better shape, got it for $513 shipped. I just hope I don't have to deal with ground loop issues, they are a pain to track down it seems.
 
vick1000 said:
Well long story short, I took it back to GC for a refund. It seemed to intoduce quite a bit of hum into my rig, probably created a ground loop, plus one of the ears was bent. Luckily one came up on ebay with no reserve, and in better shape, got it for $513 shipped. I just hope I don't have to deal with ground loop issues, they are a pain to track down it seems.

If you do get a ground loop, post up your audio chain. Do you isolate your rack ears from the rails?
 
JMMP said:
vick1000 said:
Well long story short, I took it back to GC for a refund. It seemed to intoduce quite a bit of hum into my rig, probably created a ground loop, plus one of the ears was bent. Luckily one came up on ebay with no reserve, and in better shape, got it for $513 shipped. I just hope I don't have to deal with ground loop issues, they are a pain to track down it seems.

If you do get a ground loop, post up your audio chain. Do you isolate your rack ears from the rails?

They were not isolated, but I probably will make sure everything is this time, including putting some insulation between units and on the rails.
 
I use Middle atlantic screws with a washer attached to isolate the front of the rack unit from the screw, and Middle atlantic shoulder washers to isolate the screw hole and back of the rack ear. So far, I have had no issues with ground loops, so I feel comfortable recommending this type of solution.

from sweetwater:
screws: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/HP
shoulder washers: http://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/SW

Obviously any screw with a non metal front washer should work, but I have never seen another rear shoulder washer like the one above.
 
I just bought some isolator tabs. This one is a lot better condition, basically mint. Was getting low output on the lead channel though, had to swap tubes. Don't know which it was, just swapped them all with new Mesas. Wierd thing, it had all SPAX7s in it. I wonder if that is factory, or if someone just though it was a good idea. I may get around to testing the ones that came out.

So far, the tone is fantastic. I run it in the loop of my GSP, boost the front of it with the Ampdriver model, and turn on a little noise gate, and it's just as squishy as you could ever need. I don't think the "modern" connection on the 2:90/2:100 is needed. If you figure, the "modern mode" power amps still only have silicon rectifiers, it's probably not that big a difference.

Bottom line, I am very happy with it, and at a great price it's hard to match. It's way better than the E530 and SS10 I had in there before. Way more dynamic and squishy :)

IMG_0340_zpsoggezhio.jpg
 
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