Where to buy a relay?

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RussB

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My Single Rec series 2 has a very noisy relay.Tap on it with a chopstick and all hell breaks loose! There is a hum/buzz that's in the signal at all times as well now. It's the one I put a check mark on. Google didn't help me find any. None at Mouser. Where do you get them?




MR62-6N51

 
Just do a p/n cross reference on Google, seems to be a few alternatives available. I would verify the fit and function through the datasheets, though.
 
etepbbb said:
Just do a p/n cross reference on Google, seems to be a few alternatives available. I would verify the fit and function through the datasheets, though.


I have googled, and cross referencing is beyond my capabilities because I don't know/understand the parameters of these relays. That's why I posted here
 
thunda1216 said:
have you tried contacting Mesa? They may have one in stock.


Yes. Just called a little while ago. I had to leave a message as no one from tech support was around to answer the phone
 
on some of those part numbers, the "N" indicates it is an OEM spec part. Mesa may be able to give you an alternate part number for replacement if they don't have any in stock. good luck with your search.
 
thunda1216 said:
on some of those part numbers, the "N" indicates it is an OEM spec part. Mesa may be able to give you an alternate part number for replacement if they don't have any in stock. good luck with your search.

I returned your call, Russ - give us a ring when you can, we have them available!
 
Authorized Boogie said:
thunda1216 said:
on some of those part numbers, the "N" indicates it is an OEM spec part. Mesa may be able to give you an alternate part number for replacement if they don't have any in stock. good luck with your search.

I returned your call, Russ - give us a ring when you can, we have them available!


Yes, you did! I heard your message. You called when we went out for some supper. I'll call again tomorrow. Nice to see you here on the forums
 
Are you certain the relay is bad?
A poor solder joint could also cause these symptoms.
Try gently rocking the relay back and forth as opposed to tapping it. If it acts up, try touching up the solder on the pins and look for cracks in PCB/solder joints in the vicinity.
Even if this makes no difference, poor solder joints could still be the cause. They are notorious for intermittent problems.

Good luck! :)
 
Old BF Shred said:
Are you certain the relay is bad?
A poor solder joint could also cause these symptoms.
Try gently rocking the relay back and forth as opposed to tapping it. If it acts up, try touching up the solder on the pins and look for cracks in PCB/solder joints in the vicinity.
Even if this makes no difference, poor solder joints could still be the cause. They are notorious for intermittent problems.

Good luck! :)

I don't know for sure, but I'm not going "in" without a new relay available. I can't see a way to solder/unsolder the relay without removing all the pots from the face and lifting the board up.

I did order 2 relays from Mesa today
 
RussB said:
Old BF Shred said:
Are you certain the relay is bad?
A poor solder joint could also cause these symptoms.
Try gently rocking the relay back and forth as opposed to tapping it. If it acts up, try touching up the solder on the pins and look for cracks in PCB/solder joints in the vicinity.
Even if this makes no difference, poor solder joints could still be the cause. They are notorious for intermittent problems.

Good luck! :)

I don't know for sure, but I'm not going "in" without a new relay available. I can't see a way to solder/unsolder the relay without removing all the pots from the face and lifting the board up.

I did order 2 relays from Mesa today

Russ,

Don't unsolder all the pots!!!!!!

You want lift the board from the rear. Squeeze and push the standoffs through the board - then lift up the rear edge of the board towards the pots. If the wires to the power tube board aren't letting you lift enough - remove the 4 screws on the power tube board. De-solder as little as possible!! Then, locate the old component and wick or solder suck out the old solder - the component should fall out - and replace! Very simple job on a Solo 50. Hope that helps. Thanks!
 
Authorized Boogie said:
RussB said:
Russ,

Don't unsolder all the pots!!!!!!

You want lift the board from the rear. Squeeze and push the standoffs through the board - then lift up the rear edge of the board towards the pots. If the wires to the power tube board aren't letting you lift enough - remove the 4 screws on the power tube board. De-solder as little as possible!! Then, locate the old component and wick or solder suck out the old solder - the component should fall out - and replace! Very simple job on a Solo 50. Hope that helps. Thanks!



Thanks for the tips.

I wouldn't unsolder all the pots, just unscrew them.

My single rec no longer has the PCB power tube board. The sockets are now attached to the chassis which will make things a real challenge




 
Ah. I see your amp has been modded.

I ran this past our lead tech. He asked if you are SURE its the relay, and not something controlling the relay? Many times he's had to fix homebrew repairs when the person THOUGHT it was the relay and its really not. They rarely fail.

Best of luck!
 
Authorized Boogie said:
Ah. I see your amp has been modded.

I ran this past our lead tech. He asked if you are SURE its the relay, and not something controlling the relay? Many times he's had to fix homebrew repairs when the person THOUGHT it was the relay and its really not. They rarely fail.

Best of luck!


As mentioned, I am not sure if it is the relay. The issue lies around relay1b. The amp has a 120hZ hum/buzz being introduced in the first gain stage. It increases as you switch through the 5 modes.

The 100 ohm resistor after RY1b and before V1b is hyper sensitive. The relay itself is hyper sensitive. As was mentioned, it may simply have a cold solder joint and is poorly grounded
 
I wrote this while the board was down...


Authorized Boogie said:
Ah. I see your amp has been modded.

I ran this past our lead tech. He asked if you are SURE its the relay, and not something controlling the relay? Many times he's had to fix homebrew repairs when the person THOUGHT it was the relay and its really not. They rarely fail.

Best of luck!



And of course, you are correct. Swapping the relay did nothing to eliminate the buzz/hum that is entering the circuit. I see the noise on pin 1 and 8 of V3, pin 6 of V4 and of course pins 1 & 6 of V5 where the noise is carried into the power tubes. All these are fed DC by node "C" of the power rail

Thing is, the noise doesn't come in through the power rail (node "C"). I seems to be introduced from the cathodes??? but I'm not sure. The modern mode is the noisiest. Modern mode also switches off the negative feedback from the PT

What your tech said made the most sense. There is likely (?) a bad component in the switching matrix or perhaps the mute circuit
 
And I figured, in for a penny, in for a pound!


I bought all the components in the switching and mute circuits. Even in multiples of 10, it cost less than $30 delivered from Mouser.com

Tonight I replaced the 4N33 IC, 4 2N6426 and 2 J175 transistors. Noise is gone. Life is good
 

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