That static noise or popping sounds like a tube to me. It has been such a long time since the screen resistor burned up on me so I do not recall exactly the sound it made before it went completely dead and would blow the fuse.
Let me track back, Did this noise happened before you changed power tubes? or after? And now it is still present with replacement tubes? Perhaps I miss understood the original post. Also, if the noise is present with V7 removed, it is definitely occurring in the power tube section. Did you replace the Rectifier tube as well?
If the noise was not present with the old tubes, you will have something to return to if they still work. Did any of the old tubes Red Plate on you or did the fuse blow out before you replaced the old power tubes? If so, the old tubes may be toast. If not and they were working but degraded in tone that would be good for back up.
Check for bad power tube: Start by disconnecting all signal cables (input, Send, Return) and leave the speaker connected. You will have to remove the grill or bar (depends on year of manufacture of the Mark V). Also do this in a dimly light room. with the amp facing away from you so you can see the power tubes, make sure the amp is in standby. and power off. You can use a video recorder if you need to if it is too fast to see but normally just watching the power tubes power up with your eyes should be okay. Watch the power tubes as you turn on the power switch. There should be no sudden bright flash on the heaters, they should be dim and begin to get brighter. Rectifier tube may not glow as much as the power tubes, this is normal as the cathode is not as visible. If you do see a bright yellow flash in one of the power tubes, that tube is bad. Some 12AX7 preamp tubes may do this but that is normal, power tubes should not. When the power has been on for about 30 seconds, is one heater glow extremely dim in one of the power tubes? if so, there may be a crack in the glass or loss of vacuum in that tube and should be replaced. If all 4 power tubes have similar heater element glow, on to the next step.
Set all of the power modes on each channel to 10W. and then turn off the stand by switch. 10W mode will run the Rectifier tube in the power supply, and V10 + V8. (V9 + V11 should be off and not glow blue but the heaters will be on). If you see a blue hue on V9, turn off the FXloop on the back panel. I have in the past seen V10 + V8 + V9 have a blue glow in 10W mode which I believe is not supposed to happen since that tube signal is disconnected.
If the noise is still present, chance it is Rectifier tube, V10 or V8. Turn off amp and let tube cool down. Set all channels to 90W, and remove the Rectifier tube (5U4G). turn the amp on followed by the warm up period and then turn off the standby. If the noise is still there, the Rectifier tube has been eliminated somewhat but does not mean it is a contributor. If the noise is gone, you can plug in and play to see if the noise comes back as it may need some signal coaxing. If noise is the same, power down and let tubes cool down. You can install the rectifier tube or leave it out. Try not to mix the power tubes up with the rectifier tube. The next step will isolate power tubes. Do not play guitar though the amp at this point. Remove V10. Power up and turn off standby, is noise present, V10 did not contribute. Turn off and install V10 (check to make sure it is not the rectifier tube if you opted to leave it out before turning power back on !). After tubes have cooled down, remove V8 and power up. Turn off the standby and check for noise. If it is still present, V8 did not contribute. Power down and reinstall V8. Repeat with V9 and then V11. Even though the 10W mode does not use the two tubes for the signal amplification, V9 and V10 may still contribute to the noise. Sure this takes time to go through. It will cost less than taking the amp in for repair if it turns out to be a bad tube. If the noise is still persistent and continues during the power tube check, you suspicion of power supply or even bias supply circuit may be contributing to the noise. If the noise is not present in 10W mode, the bias circuit can be eliminated as root cause since the 10W mode uses cathode bias and not grid bias. If removing the power tubes one at a time and installing ones that were assumed okay and the noise is still present, that would be the time to consider sending your amp in for repair as it will not be a tube issue at this point.
Actually I believe some of this is also in the manual on diagnosis of a tube failure or cause of issue.