Lonestar Special bias readings

Hi, I was wanting to know if anyone on here has ever took a bias reading to see how much current stock Mesa tubes draw with the Lonestar special? I know they are class A and run hot but, I have recently picked up a used one that I am concerned about. I have not had any problems with the 5y3 rectifier tube at all like some have mentioned but, I have had some power tube issues. New Mesa el84's I installed here recently have had an issue with redplating. Two of them redplated at the 30 watt setting after about 1 to 2 hours of gig volume level. I put the amp in standby for a few moments and then back on and they worked fine with no more redplating. I then probed all 4 power tubes in 30 watt mode and I get readings over 51 plus MA per tube with plate voltage around 338 or so. I am not a tech but, I do know enough to get inside an amp safely and have not been able to see anything burned or unusual in side the chassis. I also put the old power tubes in and probed them as well and got similar readings (in the low 50's as well and same plate voltage). The redplating has happened 2 times with the new Mesa tubes. The first time it happened I thought it might be the cathode follower preamp tube because it did have one of the Mesa Russian 2 tubes in there. The volume got distorted and dropped considerably and I wasn't looking behind the amp and didn't see the redplating. When it happened the second time several days later is when I knew it was not a preamp tube issue and looked back behind the amp and found the power tube problem. Anyone who has experience with these amps I would appreciate your input. Thanks

I have an update. I got back inside the amp again and found a resistor that I didn't see before that has gotten hot enough that it was slightly crispy. The color bands could still be read but it has definitely been semi-roasted. The redplating power tubes may have caused this or the resistor being damaged could be responsible for the tube problems. I could have replaced it with the same value but, I decided not to because it very well may happen again and will need to have detective work done that I am not capable of. I took it to a place here in town yesterday that has been repairing stuff for years and years so, I will post an update whenever the work is done since it may be helpful to someone else.

68 ohm resistor got replaced. So far amp is working fine. Whoever owned the amp before me probably had a power tube or maybe the rectifier tube go down and cause that resistor to roast. Glad it is fixed.

Anyone know what the function of that 68 ohm resistor is? I've just experienced the same fault. Crispy 68 ohm 1W resistor (R104) went pfft, now reads 51 ohm. The 110 Ohm 10W ceramic resistor next to it was pretty warm too but maybe that is to be expected.
My Amp was on 30W setting both channels, with the stock speaker connected to the Optional 35W Output. I was driving it hard but it actually died about 30 seconds after I had pulled back after the "loud" section. Fortunately it was only at rehearsal. I've Been using this amp weekly at high volumes with the same o/p valves for 4 years regularly and only issue until now was I had to chang the 5Y3 six months in, so pretty good overall. Great tone but my LSS has always been a noisy amp (hiss). Been through lots of pre-amp valve substitutions, cryo, etc without much success at bringing the noise level down. I don't use the drive cascade stage and don't play metal. Love the cleans.

What are your bias readings now. You're correct that 51 ma is way high.