Yes or No - Simul-class?

The Boogie Board

Help Support The Boogie Board:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Simul-class?

  • No

    Votes: 11 55.0%
  • Yes

    Votes: 9 45.0%

  • Total voters
    20

Markedman

Well-known member
Boogie Supporter
Joined
Jun 26, 2013
Messages
1,453
Reaction score
19
Location
Norfolk, CT
I say no. What says you? I asked for gut shots and I suggested calling Mesa to confirm my suspicions. He insists it will sell for this price, we'll see won't we?

https://reverb.com/item/4596647-mesa-boogie-mark-iic-long-chassis-head-simulclass-eq-mk-2c-plus-1984
 
Very difficult to know. As a long head owner myself, it's impossible unless you see guts or the code on the output transformer.
 
Sure, I'll take him at his word. I'll believe anything :cry:

But that's quite the asking price, wow
 
I voted "no", it is not Simulclass.

It looks like a 100/60 model. There is no switch on the back for "Class A" vs "SimulClass".

My .02.
 
The position of the screen-grid resistors on the outer power tube sockets will be a clue, just like the output transformer number. Stupid high price, though. Walk away, like Joe Walsh says.
 
bgh said:
I voted "no", it is not Simulclass.

It looks like a 100/60 model. There is no switch on the back for "Class A" vs "SimulClass".

My .02.
IIC and IIC+ Long Heads didn't have the "Class A - SimulClass" switch. They had a "Full power - 1/2 power" switch.
So the only way to tell would be as JB says above:
"The position of the screen-grid resistors on the outer power tube sockets will be a clue, just like the output transformer number"
The OT is the most obvious way to tell.
 
gts said:
bgh said:
I voted "no", it is not Simulclass.

It looks like a 100/60 model. There is no switch on the back for "Class A" vs "SimulClass".

My .02.
IIC and IIC+ Long Heads didn't have the "Class A - SimulClass" switch. They had a "Full power - 1/2 power" switch.
So the only way to tell would be as JB says above:
"The position of the screen-grid resistors on the outer power tube sockets will be a clue, just like the output transformer number"
The OT is the most obvious way to tell.

Thanks. Did not know that.

Would that mean then that they ran in SimulClass all the time? Or was it controlled by the "Full power - 1/2 power switch"?

My understanding was the outer pair were treated differently that the inner pair when running in SimulClass mode. (It sounds great on my Mark IV).
 
OT will be stamped simul-class. Long heads did not have the class A/ Simulclass switch on back. The full power 1/2 power switch takes its place and function. I have seen the class A/ simul-class label on front of long heads (put over the full/1/2 switch..) The Full and half switch is your class A/ simul class switch IF it is infact a simul class head.
 
kippiejr said:
OT will be stamped simul-class. Long heads did not have the class A/ Simulclass switch on back. The full power 1/2 power switch takes its place and function. I have seen the class A/ simul-class label on front of long heads (put over the full/1/2 switch..) The Full and half switch is your class A/ simul class switch IF it is infact a simul class head.
Thanks. From an earlier post, I was wondering if that was true. You just confirmed it.

This is really a very cool forum. I have learned quite a bit in the time I have been here.
I just wish I was able to return the favor more.
 
JOEY B. said:
Simul-Class at 15 watts with Sylvania 6CA7's in the outer sockets for the mid-gain sounds really do it for me. Just my opinion, though.

+1
Same here. When I first found and put a pair of Sylvania EL34/ 6CA7's in my Simul C+ and played it in Class A mode I was stunned, even blown away.
It was like getting the fatness of Sylvania 6L6's with the chime of EL34's.
I was so blown away I played the C+ in Class A mode only for weeks. In fact I still play it in Class-A mode quite a bit.
No other EL34/ 6CA7 does this.
Find yourself some old Sylvania's, you'll be glad you did! (It may take awhile as they are no longer made but they are out there.)
 
I know the seller, stand up guy and knows his C+'s. If he says it is, count on it. Drive that market...... :mrgreen:
 
No. I have a 1984 DRG factory C+ and I'm still not getting what the big fuss is over SC. When I engage mine , not one difference in tone, just a slight boost in volume. What am I missing here? Did I get a lemon?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top