Tung-Sol reissue 12AX7

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cesjr

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I've been hearing a lot of great things about these. It's stated Tung-Sol is New Sensor's "premium" brand of tubes. Does anyone have any experiences with these? How do they compare to other "current production" 12AX7's?

cesjr
 
New Sensor's current-production "Tung-Sol" is a very respectable 12AX7: it has quite a low noise floor, very good clarity, and nice thick low-mids. It is my favorite new-production option.

That said, I'm a self-professed NOS snob - not because of some esoteric old-glass clout, to compensate for a deficient sense of self-worth, but because many old valves greatly out-perform the best of current-production.

The genuine, original Tung-Sol 12AX7 has noticeably improved clarity and liveliness, compared to this upstart pseudo-Tung-Sol. Still, if you're getting new, you can only do worse choosing another, in my opinion.

- T
 
Thanks for the response Timbre Wolf. That's good to hear about these reissues, I think I may get a few and try them.

As for the NOS vs. current production thing, I surprise why I'm not trying every NOS tube I can find. I consider myself a "tone purist" constantly searching for the best tone. I'm sure I'm like most people, I simply feel overwhelmed when it comes to NOS tubes. There are many to choose from and not to mention countless different combinations. Or it could just be because of the price.

However it is nice to know when you find a good current production tube that there will be plenty of them.
 
cesjr said:
I consider myself a "tone purist" constantly searching for the best tone.
If you can strive for an excellent tone, and not the best tone, you'll save lots of money.

But, if you want NOS 12AX7, there are many superb flavors to be had:
Mullard long-plate ('50s) - inspiring clarity, wonderful low-end growl when pushed.
Tung-Sol square-getter 12AX7 ('50s) - stunning clarity, sweet highs, liquid dynamics
Raytheon black-plate/halo-getter 12AX7A (early '60s) - sweet, bright & twangy clarity, early breakup
Ken-Rad black/silvery-plate 12AX7 (early '50s) - early breakup, like Raytheon, but more robust lows and slightly less-bright highs
GE long gray-plate (early '60s) 12AX7 - thick lows, rounded off highs, just a hair less clarity than Tung-Sol
Tesla (not JJ) frame-grid E83CC ('70s) - bright, clear, late-breakup, less microphonic-prone
Sylvania short gray-plate/square-getter 12AX7 (mid-'50s) - brighter early-breakup, less microphonic-prone
RFT ECC83 ('70s/'80s) - darker early-breakup, less microphonic-prone

... and on and on - those were just a few of my favorite 12AX7, off the top of my head. Then there are 12BZ7, 5751, 12AT7, E180CC, 12AU7, etc.

- T
 
If you can strive for an excellent tone, and not the best tone, you'll save lots of money.

Maybe that's why my search is never ending. :lol: Thanks for the NOS info.
 
...or you can just stick with NOS tubes that are attainable. I love the way Timbre Wolf, and others, list tubes that are virtually impossible to find, or which sell for well over $50 a pop:)

One of the best "attainable" NOS 12AX7s is the Tesla E83CC. It's also on Timbre Wolf's list.

Mike K
KCA NOS Tubes
www.kcanostubes.com
The Wolrd's Largest Selection of Guitar Amp Tubes
 
MikeKCA said:
...or you can just stick with NOS tubes that are attainable. I love the way Timbre Wolf, and others, list tubes that are virtually impossible to find, or which sell for well over $50 a pop:)

Or more $$$ - you don't even want to know what Ken-Rad 6L6G matched pairs go for these days!! :oops: But I'm just following my ears (sometimes with my billfold wide open to the breeze). I don't care too much for money - money can't buy me love...

Actually, Raytheon black-plate 12AX7A are not so awfully rare (or expensive), as long as you don't mind buying used ones. The Tesla E83CC is very good for clean and bright - I just don't find myself using them (yet), as I've found others I like better.

Hey Mike - the Tesla E83CC I've got have smaller pins than all the other 12AX7 types I've ever used. I find this strange. Any comments??

- Thom
 
Smaller as in shorter, or smaller diameter?

Answer: I don't know, I wasn't working at Tesla at the time;)
 
MikeKCA said:
Smaller as in shorter, or smaller diameter?

Answer: I don't know, I wasn't working at Tesla at the time;)
Smaller diameter pins. They don't fit as tightly in the sockets - something to look out for. Sometimes I've heard harsh higher-frequency transients when using these, and I've wondered if the pin connection may have something to do with it. Moot point for me now, since I don't use them. But I never know when I might just need 'em again.

- T
 
Timbre Wolf said:
MikeKCA said:
Smaller as in shorter, or smaller diameter?

Answer: I don't know, I wasn't working at Tesla at the time;)
Smaller diameter pins. They don't fit as tightly in the sockets - something to look out for. Sometimes I've heard harsh higher-frequency transients when using these, and I've wondered if the pin connection may have something to do with it. Moot point for me now, since I don't use them. But I never know when I might just need 'em again.

- T

Since I've only had one return in about 600 sold, I'm not too worried about this.
 
MikeKCA said:
Botch said:
Can anyone tell me how theses tung sols compare to the JJs? :)

The Tung Sols make the JJs seem completely lifeless.
Wow! That's strong language, when coming from an experienced tube dealer. I'm glad you said this before I did - when people figure out who you are, they'll listen more attentively than they ever have to me. :roll:

Actually, I've only tried JJ ECC83S (short-plate/frame-grid), not ECC803S (long-plate) - I'd assume the 803 would have the most clarity of the two.

Hey, I just saw that Yngwie endorses JJ tubes. 'Nuff said!!

- Thom
 
Get some of both they're cheap enough. As you can see there are many views and it seems the most expensive will be the best but this is not always the case. JJ's can be had for about $7 USD and the Tung Sol for
$15 USD. Get what you can afford at first and then buy extra if funding permits.
 
disassembled said:
Get some of both they're cheap enough. As you can see there are many views and it seems the most expensive will be the best but this is not always the case. JJ's can be had for about $7 USD and the Tung Sol for
$15 USD. Get what you can afford at first and then buy extra if funding permits.

I'm running a full set of JJs at the mo!
 
Timbre Wolf said:
MikeKCA said:
Botch said:
Can anyone tell me how theses tung sols compare to the JJs? :)

The Tung Sols make the JJs seem completely lifeless.
Wow! That's strong language, when coming from an experienced tube dealer. I'm glad you said this before I did - when people figure out who you are, they'll listen more attentively than they ever have to me. :roll:

Actually, I've only tried JJ ECC83S (short-plate/frame-grid), not ECC803S (long-plate) - I'd assume the 803 would have the most clarity of the two.

Hey, I just saw that Yngwie endorses JJ tubes. 'Nuff said!!

- Thom

Its funny (maybe not) but Yngwie's once enviable tone went down the toilet when he released his "war to end all wars" cd, and that was EXACTLY the time when all of his Marshall 50 watters were completely re-tubed with JJ's.

I agree w/ what Mike said, I know some folks love em, but the JJ ECC83s, graded sucked the life out of every amp I placed them in, the worst being my Dual Rectifier - yuck. Power tubes are ok, but to hell with the Ecc83's

The new Tung Sols rule, I have them in my Germino Lead 55, Marshall JCM800 and Rivera 100 duo 12 - I plan on giving them a go in my Dual Rec, but am digging the Chinese Eh mix I have in there now.
 

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