I wonder how my boogie dealer stays in business sometimes

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ChrisRocksUSA

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laziest company ever. They simply don't care to make sales.

Every time I go in there the place is empty (wonder why lol). I trolled in there a few weeks ago to inquire about the mini recto. They didn't have one in stock, but said that their mesa rep would be back from NAMM (I thought mesa was NOT at namm? oh well) that same week and they would know more about when they can expect to get one in stock.

ok cool. So they take down my name and # and said they'd call me as soon as they hear from the mesa rep to lmk when I can expect them to have one in the store.

They never call back, I eventually said 'f it' and just bought a single recto elsewhere.

Now I'm getting parts together to build a custom cab (my dad is building it for me while I'm in Germany for 2 weeks as part of my duties int the USAF reserve). I called them to inquire about ordering a replacement wicker grill (I'm doing a stained wood/wicker grill 2x12). They said they should be able to get it in, but they need to call their rep and find out pricing.

they never called me back about that either.

it's funny b/c when I was in there asking about the mini they were telling me about how they had a very slow holiday season and that's why they didn't yet have a mini in. You'd think they'd be able to get off their *** and make a goddamn phone call to make a sale here and there.
 
Good luck with the cabinet.

Here's where I get my cane grill material. It helps that one of their stores is only a few blocks from me.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=57635&cat=1,250,43298,57641
 
tonefordays said:
Good luck with the cabinet.

Here's where I get my cane grill material. It helps that one of their stores is only a few blocks from me.

http://www.leevalley.com/us/wood/page.aspx?p=57635&cat=1,250,43298,57641

oh, wow.

i had been searching online but couldn't find the right pattern. the one shown on the page looks right lol


Any idea how much I need for a 2x12? It's being built to recto specs

you used that octogonal mesh right? Radio mesh looks kinda nice too
 
ChrisRocksUSA said:
Any idea how much I need for a 2x12? It's being built to recto specs

If you get the 24" width, I imagine 3' would give you enough. It's always good to have extra, though. The coarser pattern is exact to the classic Boogie grilles. I imagine years ago, they just used chair caning that they were able to get. The Radio weave is exactly like a lot of the current cabs. They use a coated version, though (painted black is probably all it is).
 
BTW, for attachment, I used a groove and the retaining cane, but it was a royal pita. Next time, i think I would just use some standoffs that are effectively just spacers around the outside of the grill frame to keep it separated from the baffle so it doesn't rattle, and screw lots of them to the frame with the cane material just sandwiched between the spacers and the back side of the frame. Maybe a dab of hot glue here and there closer to the frame opening to keep the cane itself from rattling against the back of the frame.
 
I never thought of that. if it rests on the baffle it's going to rattle an awful lot huh? I had assumed you could get it tight enough that it wouldn;t rattle :?
 
Anywhere 2 pieces are in contact with each other without solid fixing (glue), they will tend to resonate at some point. Even a screwed connection between 2 panels will allow rattling. Small standoffs between the baffle and grill frame give a much smaller contact surface, so the force from the screws is not spread over a large area. A tighter, smaller contact point always helps kill potential rattles.
 
I just used small blocks of wood, about 1/2" thick. Several around the outside of the frame. The Rectifier cabinet design is a little different, more like the old Marshall - but it still uses a 1/2" spacer all the way around the edge to space the grill from the baffle, probably more to allow a little space to the drivers from the grill to prevent easy damage than anything. The grill cloth doesn't rattle, but still needs a clean attachment. Cane actually has some physical thickness to it. You may have to think carefully about your design for retaining the grill if you want to stay faithful to those looks. My cabinet design is a lot like the TA, with the prominent removable frame screwed to the baffle from inside, with the spacers in between the 2.

Also, cross-bracing the back is going to be critical for that size of sealed cabinet. Marshall put a 2x2 brace lengthwise between the back and baffle that actually flexed the back very slightly outward when screwed down to prevent it moving and potentially rattling. The brace is about 1/8" longer than the spacing between the baffle and back. Some of them used small pieces of rubber to get that extra 1/8", as they were apparently cut to an exact dimension initially, which wouldn't allow the rattle-preventing loading of the brace.
 
ChrisRocksUSA said:
Can you post pics of yours?
I can try perhaps in the morning when I get home from work, or perhaps just before I go to work this evening.
 
I have a few minutes while dinner cooks. Dimensions of my cab are the same as Avatar's 2x12.

IMG_06471.jpg


IMG_06481.jpg


IMG_06491.jpg


edit: now that I have it apart again, it appears my spacers are only just over 1/4" thick.
 
wow, I'm really glad I made this thread lol.


so the 4 blocks on the top and bottom are your spacers? Interesting design with the other panel over the cane. Very nice work! I'm going to just go ahead and order the cane from the website you provided. That looks great. Do you know what people use to wax the wicker stuff so that it has that shiny look to it?
 
The cane comes finished on one side, so that it looks slightly shiny (look closely at the first pic vs. the last one). It's either a thin lacquer or wax based, I'm not sure, but there is a definite front and back to it. The attachment of the cane is just by the wedged strip into a 1/4" slot. The wooden wedges on the website associated with the strip material have the effect of slightly tensioning the cane as it's attached. It's not terribly easy to do, and I ruined a piece of grill material getting the hang of it. That's why I suggest getting some extra material. My slot is not as deep as it should be (I think), so the retaining material had to be wedged upside down to what the instructions say - i.e. fatter section in the bottom of the groove.

To be clear, the last photo is the back side of the grill frame, which was removed for the second photo. The cane is attached directly to the back of that frame.
 
Oh ok, cool. Do they sell the wedge too, or do I need to get that elsewhere? Do they include instructions on how to wedge this stuff?
 
Their pages on the other supplies (reed spline and caning wedges) pretty much explain it all. After that, it's trial & error. If you pound the wedges a bit too hard, you can tear the cane. You just want to ease the cane into the groove easily along the whole length, then slowly work it deeper along the length. It will deform into the slot and then you can drive the reed spline in with the wooden wedge to hold everything. Make your slot deeper than mine. Too much force initially to get the cane into the slot will tend to make the wedge tear through. Easy does it, and don't use a hammer until the end. Try it a few times with scrap pieces to see how deep you should make the slot and to get the hang of it. Once you get one side fixed, the other side is twice as easy to tear, as the cane is now tensioned just by forcing it into the slot. Don't worry about breaking the odd piece - it will never show and the functionality won't be impaired. Trim the outside with a sharp razor AFTER. Leave a couple inches extra on every side to allow for the room necessary to get it to seat in the slot.
 
where does it wedge into? I figured it'd be wedge between the top of the baffle and the cabinet, but it doesn't look like there's space between that in your photo. I can't tell in the bottom pick where that space is
 
The last photo shows one corner of the back side of the grill. The slot is just over 1/2" in from the outside edge all the way around the back side of the grill frame. the frame itself is just a piece of 1/2" birch plywood. The cane is just laid flat against the back and wedged into the slot all the way around the perimeter with the reed material, then trimmed. The front of the grill frame is Tolexed, and it has been trimmed exactly around the inner part of the oval cutout. There is no overlap of Tolex material around to the back side.
 

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