Need help violating my guitar

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Cadavre

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Desperately seeking advice on swapping a TR panel mount to a fat cast nickel Switchcraft XLR. I did see speakon and Nutrik jacks that were smaller - but they did not look robust z`nuff.

You know you need to address an issue ...

... when an apparent tail end boomer escapee from a Nail Salon Operator Convention offers a drink while you look at the club entrance for the gear guy with the keys to the van so you can polish off a vile, or two, of Royal Jelly Panarax, swab off the sweat, change the Haynes and slam down a can of Arizonona Green Tea on a 108 degree S Teha day - and you hear, in a classic MILF scotch and cig alto a suggestively asked phrase along the line of .. "why you always adjusting your package" forcing you to politely explain that the Jap Modern HM you been playing (to preserve the old lady's "C" neck and frets) has some farkle or pillow fairy in the input jack - and that you find yourself subconsciously, almost incessantly, twisting it to assure the contacts are mating (even when the input jack pillow fairy hasn't stolen a decibel or subharmonic from the last bar - even when the head is on standby - while you ponder a comment along the lines - "I've never seen mascara used as a hair jell" - it be time to shed your old compulsive dead brain walking "cable jack" tick and fix de bxtch!

Purchased a Switchcraft cast housing XLR input jack for the HM (side mount). The HM is about 1 3/4 inches wide - the mounting flange on the XLK is 1 1/2 inches wide.

Replaced pickups - switches - solder my cables - but never bored into a guitar with a machine. Have drill press - heres a snag of the elements:
XLRStratJack.gif


I am not an expert - but I am very retentive. I will have the butt of the HM solid jigged to the drill press.

I'll use a 1 1/2" bit to flatten out the surface where the XLR is to be mounted so that the flange is flush.

May need to clean up with a one inch for the replacement barrel.

The trick I need - and I am sweating at the thought of this - is a best practice method to preserve and assure the drilling mark. If someone don't change my mind B4 I start - the plan is to glue a flat wide piece of 3/8 pine. The glue line will be centered on the existing TR routing between a 1/2 inch radius and a 3/4 radius. When the glue dries the attached "stick" will be use to assure the axis of the new hole trues to the old hole and (old) TR jack "center" point.

The 1 inch hole is drilled first the the 1 1/2 inch bit will mill off just enough wood to for a flush and aesthetic finished mount (the "fir out" stick bond will be milled away.

The are some components for the TBX (wah wah with no pedal!) - if it can handle my banging - the drilling trauma shouldn't be too risky (right?).

I go mow lawn now - when finished - if anyone can share a better way - I'll fed ex them my neighbors gerbil and enough of her modified Barbie Wardrobe for any itinerary y'all decide on. Here's her Sweet 16 picture (no tongue on first date):
animals-wearing-july-4-independence-day-clothes-gerbil.jpg

Image courtesy Teen.com

thanks ....
 
Forgot - the Switch Craft is a three pin - but there is a 4th pin that appears to be cast and [set] screwed to the outer barrel adjacent to the inner lock tab. I called SC and the support tech had to go run it doem. I thought it was a tab to insert the and remove the guts - BUT - the SC tech said it needed to be grounded to the sleeve lead along with the pin 1 pin 3 bridge "bridged" (i guess it will be "half balanced).

Sure is a hefty looking soldering point - where's my blow torch?

Does SC make those plugs on GC's bottom drawer 78 guage, 3 strand barber poled, but only evident in bright light" shielding that only cost a buck and a dime for 50 ft?

Mogami - eat your heart out - you too monster - ya got it all wrong - ya see - the less signal passed through the cable the less the risk of noise!:lol:
 

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