customizing a rectifier

[Nick Lehman]

A few question for those who have customized there rectifiers...

I'm going to have a hardwood headshell built for my triple rectifier, and I'm planning on using zebrawood.

I want to change to a nicer leather handle but I need the hardware to be black, anybody know of anything out there like this? I have scoured the internet but can only find handles with chrome hardware.

I am not planning on cutting out the hole for the top grill, just leaving the back open and the grill on the front, will this be adequate ventilation?

If anyone has had the diamond plate face powdercoated, do you know remember if is was a flat color or semi-gloss? I just want it to match the dull black of the chassis.

Also I am thinking of going with metal corners instead of the leather w/tacks, will any metal corner with just the two mounting holes work?

This is a pic I found of one similar to what I am going for, just with a different flavor...

 

[Chester]

Wow - that wooden cab really is something special..

 

[afu]

If you are making this yourself, I just want to warn you about zebrawood. It has a course, irregular grain, is really hard, and chips easily. It's a pain in the buttocks to cut and sand, and the smell is nasty when it's being cut or sanded. It looks beautiful when it's finished, but I never want to use it again. I used it on a custom guitar and it eventually came out well, but there are other woods that are both beautiful and easier to work with. If you want a flat appearance, you'll have to fill the grain before putting a finish on it and for me that just adds one more thing for a stain to possibly pick up.

If you are experienced with woodworking and have the patience to work with it, ignore everything I said. :mrgreen: Just remember that time and deep breaths are your friend.

 

[Nick Lehman]

If you are making this yourself, I just want to warn you about zebrawood It has a course, irregular grain, is really hard, and chips easily. It's a pain in the buttocks to cut and sand, and the smell is nasty when it's being cut or sanded. It looks beautiful when it's finished, but I never want to use it again. I used it on a custom guitar and it eventually came out well, but there are other woods that are both beautiful and easier to work with. If you want a flat appearance, you'll have to fill the grain before putting a finish on it and for me that just adds one more thing for a stain to possibly pick up.

If you are experienced with woodworking and have the patience to work with it, ignore everything I said. :mrgreen: Just remember that time and deep breaths are your friend.

Thanks for the warning, i have read that zebrawood is not the best to work with, but i am assuming that
Making a box will be easier than making a guitar out of it. I am having this older man help me, he has
Been doing wood work for years, and has all the tools to do this.

I have also considered using some different woods but I just can't get past the zebrawood. Looks F###ing awesome!

Anyone else want to chime in about the above questions asked?

 

[JMMP]

If you're going for the standard hardwood head shell look from mesa, they don't usually put corners on them, metal or wood. I just bought a hardwood shell, and it just has the wood for corners. The picture you linked is the same way.

 

[afu]

Heat travels up. When the heat escapes through the top vents, it's pulling cool air in from the rear and naturally provides cooling by way of convection. Blocking or removing the top vents will cause a decrease in ventilation, heat will build up, and it will decrease the lifespan of the tubes and the components in the amp. Another solution is to install a fan. It's still more effective to draw in cool air than to force out hot air, so you'll need to position the fan at an opening. If you're leaving the venting at the front, you could use a fan to pull in air from the front and vent out the back.

 

[Nick Lehman]

If you're going for the standard hardwood head shell look from mesa, they don't usually put corners on them, metal or wood just bought a hardwood shell, and it just has the wood for corners. The picture you linked is the same way.

Yeah I think I have decided to leave the corners off. im just a little worried about taking it to shows. Ill just have to be careful

Heat travels up. When the heat escapes through the top vents, it's pulling cool air in from the rear and naturally provides cooling by way of convection. Blocking or removing the top vents will cause a decrease in ventilation, heat will build up, and it will decrease the lifespan of the tubes and the components in the amp. Another solution is to install a fan. It's still more effective to draw in cool air than to force out hot air, so you'll need to position the fan at an opening. If you're leaving the venting at the front, you could use a fan to pull in air from the front and vent out the back.

That's actually a good idea. I want to keep a really clean look. I thought it would be cool cut some louvers in the top like an old muscle car hood but I dont want to screw up that zebrawood. looked at some today and found a couple really nice pieces. Enough to do the top and bottom and the baffle that the faceplate attaches to. For both pieces it is going to be around $120. Yikes

 

[Nick Lehman]

To JMMP: if you don't mind me asking, how much is mesa wanting for the hardwood shells?

 

[JMMP]

I actually didn't order mine from Mesa. It was a b stock made by Mesa being sold by a company in Cali. I paid 225+ shipping for an imbuya can and black jute grill. It has a few scratches and stuff, but IMO totally worth it. I figure the same cab from Mesa brand new would be north of $600. Last I heard, a new head shell for a rectifier series (black tolex, black grill) is ~$400. Mesa charges a LOT for the hardwood option.

If you call Mesa, they will give you an estimate on the cost (so you can see how much you're saving ).